black gold jewelry: December 2008

Jewelry chains: Tiger eye link

With the tiger eye link chain shown above, only the gold colored links are the tiger eye links.

A tiger eye chain link is formed from two split rings, shown at the top of the illustration to the left. The split ends of each ring are deformed so they overlap.

The two rings are combined, intertwined, and soldered to form a single link.

The photo below shows two example of jewelry pieces that have been confusingly called "tiger eye link." These two pieces use the semi-precious gemstone tiger eye to form the link itself with the piece on the right, or to adorn the links of the watch band on the left.

With the tiger eye link chain shown above, only the gold colored links are the tiger eye links.

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Jewelry chains: Panther link

Panther link chain

The panther link chain is a style of jewelry chain made with a series of partially overlapping hinged links. As the illustration shows, the panther link chain can be constructed in a variety of widths and with non-functional side ornaments.

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Animal designs: Panther jewelry

According to Elise B. Misiorowski, writing in the March 1998 issue of Professional Jeweler Magazine, the use of realistic representation of panthers in fine jewelry is a 20th Century innovation. In 1948 the Duke of Windsor commissioned Cartier to make a panther brooch for the Duchess of Windsor. The panther designs produced by Cartier and the celebrity of the patrons created a popular sensation, and panther and other big cat designs were favored for a time. A resurgence of panther popularity occurred in the 1980s.

"The panther is now a metaphor for the contemporary woman; sensual and self-assured with an underlying element of danger, hinting that care should be used in handling this exotic creature."

Photos of these various vintage jewelry pieces are difficult to locate, but a selection of contemporary panther jewelry designs may be viewed here: Panther jewelry.

"The panther is now a metaphor for the contemporary woman; sensual and self-assured with an underlying element of danger, hinting that care should be used in handling this exotic creature."

Photos of these various vintage jewelry pieces are difficult to locate, but a selection of contemporary panther jewelry designs may be viewed here: Panther jewelry.

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Book notes: Suzanne Tennenbaum & Janet Zapata

Jeweled Garden: A Colorful History of Gems, Jewelry, and Nature
by: Suzanne Tennenbaum & Janet Zapata
Vendome Press, 2006
Hardcover ISBN-10: 0865651728
Hardcover ISBN-13: 978-0865651722
Softcover ISBN-10: 0500513295
Softcover ISBN-13: 978-0500513293

A comprehensive history of botanical motifs in jewelry from the Victorian period to the present. Illustrated.

The Jeweled Menagerie: A World of Animals in Gems
by: Suzanne Tennenbaum & Janet Zapata
Thames & Hudson, 2001
Hardcover ISBN-10: 0500510490
Hardcover ISBN-13: 978-0500510490
Softcover ISBN-10: 0500286736
Softcover ISBN-13: 978-0500286739

A comprehensive history of animal motifs in jewelry from the Victorian period to the present. Illustrated.

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Professional Jeweler Magazine

PJM - Professional Jeweler Magazine
1500 Walnut Street, Suite 1200
Philadelphia, PA 19102
phone: 215-567-0727
fax: 215-545-9629

www.professionaljeweler.com

The website does not appear to have been updated since late 2006, and the status of the publication itself is unknown. Article archives for 2006 and before are still available online

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Wittelsbach blue diamond sells for $24.3 million

The world famous 35.56 carat Wittelsbach blue diamond sold at a Christie's auction for a record $24.3 million.

CNN: Diamond sells for recession-busting $24.3 M

The Wittelsbach