New Watch Releases from Girard-Perregaux, Hublot, Tag Heuer, Seiko at Baselworld 2013

Girard-Perregaux Constant (Force) Escapement

These watchmakers have unveiled what they claim are new innovations in the Swiss watch industry. I can’t tell you how many times a watch brand has made a claim of creating something completely new or whether that function or design detail has any real value.

However, this elite group of brands can certainly back their claims and I believe they have succeed in doing that with products that are listed below.

Girard-Perregaux Constant (Force) Escapement (top photo)
It’s not often that one experiences a horological breakthrough but this may have been in the case at the Girard-Perregaux booth during Baselworld 2013. It is about as a complicated as a complication can be but in short the Swiss luxury watch brand has created a way to provide constant energy to the balance (regulator) wheel. The brand describes the solution to this problem as the “holy grail” of watchmaking.

What this means that there is no revving up or slowly down the rate of speed of a watch, which is typical in the operation of a mechanical watch. For example, when first winding a watch the movement sometimes works at a faster than normal rate of speed. As the watch loses power its speed diminishes until it slowly stops or is manually wound again. The solution created by Girard-Perregaux keeps the watch at constant and consistent regulated speed throughout this cycle.

This breakthrough (if indeed it is a breakthrough and time will tell) uses a 14 micron silicon buckled-blade, six times thinner than a human hair, which acts as a way to provide a repeated pulse to two escape wheels at a rate that is constant and consistent. This in turn provides the same consistent force of energy to the balance wheel. It beats at the frequency of 3 Hz or 21,600 vibrations per hour.

It is a bit more complicated than my explanation. There are detailed stories of how this process works at Hodinkee and Revolution that include Girard-Perregaux videos.

The operation of the escapement and its butterfly-shaped wing frame is clearly visible on the lower half of the dial. The hours and minutes occupy a sub-dial off-centered at 12 o’clock. This is flanked by two energy reservoirs in the shape of double barrels. The power reserve indicator is placed at 9 o’clock.

Tag Heuer Carrera MikroPendulumS
The Swiss luxury watch brand explains this as the first ever magnetic double tourbillion. Two magnetic pendulums replace hairsprings: one is for telling time and the other for timekeeping. The watch chain turns at 12Hz and its chronograph chain turns at 50Hz (60-minute power reserve). The chronograph tourbillon, the world’s fastest, says the watch brand, controls the 1/100th of a second, beats 360,000 an hour and rotates 12 times a minute.

The case is forged from a chrome and cobalt alloy used in aviation and surgery. It is biocompatible, harder than titanium, easier to shape and as luminous as white gold. The case design, with its stopwatch-like placement of the crown at 12 o’clock, is based on the 2012 Aiguille d’Or winner, the TAG Heuer Carrera Mikrogirder, and the Carrera 50 Year Anniversary Jack Heuer edition. The two tourbillon pendulums and their solid rose gold bridges (18K 5N) are visible through the fine-brushed anthracite dial. The hand applied “100” at 12 o’clock is in solid rose gold. The chronograph minutes counter is at 12 o’clock, chronograph seconds at 3, and the chronograph power reserve at 9. The 1/100th of a second scale appears on the silver flange.

Hublot Big Bang Unico Chrono
This is the first in a new line of products designed to house all future incarnations of the Unico movement. The iconic design of the Big Bang has evolved to contain the Unico, an in-house made column wheel chronograph movement with a dual horizontal coupling visible on the dial side. This marks the start of a new line of Hublot products designed to complete the Big Bang, Classic Fusion, King Power and Masterpieces ranges, the company said.

For the very first time since the creation of the Big Bang in 2005, the push-buttons are round. Each one is protected by a push-button guard integrated in the middle and finished like an engine piston. A skeleton dial reveals the movement. A minute counter is positioned at 3 o'clock and a small seconds counter at 9 o'clock. The date view is at 3 o'clock.

The HUB 1242 Unico manufacture movement is a flyback chronograph that can be reset at any time with two push-buttons. The hour counter is driven directly by the barrel, and there is no jumper in the chronograph mechanism. This simplification boosts reliability and robustness. Its silicon pallet fork and escapement wheel are fixed to a removable platform and are made from silicon. The movement has been trimmed to 330 components. It has a frequency of 4hz/28,800 vibrations per hour with a power reserve of about 72 hours.

Seiko Kinetic Direct Drive
Seiko made the world’s first kinetic watch 25 years ago that used the motion of the wearer to create the electrical energy to power a quartz movement. Using the mechanical energy of a traditional oscillating weight, the Kinetic rotor spins at up to 100,000 rpm, creating the electrical energy that drives the quartz movement without having to change the battery.

For the Kinetic Direct Drive caliber, not only does the rotor power the watch as one moves, but the wearer can also power it by turning the crown, just like a mechanical watch. In addition, when winding the crown, the power reserve changes function to become a real-time indicator of the energy that is imparted to the watch through the winding. 

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

Girard-Perregaux Constant (Force) Escapement

These watchmakers have unveiled what they claim are new innovations in the Swiss watch industry. I can’t tell you how many times a watch brand has made a claim of creating something completely new or whether that function or design detail has any real value.

However, this elite group of brands can certainly back their claims and I believe they have succeed in doing that with products that are listed below.

Girard-Perregaux Constant (Force) Escapement (top photo)
It’s not often that one experiences a horological breakthrough but this may have been in the case at the Girard-Perregaux booth during Baselworld 2013. It is about as a complicated as a complication can be but in short the Swiss luxury watch brand has created a way to provide constant energy to the balance (regulator) wheel. The brand describes the solution to this problem as the “holy grail” of watchmaking.

What this means that there is no revving up or slowly down the rate of speed of a watch, which is typical in the operation of a mechanical watch. For example, when first winding a watch the movement sometimes works at a faster than normal rate of speed. As the watch loses power its speed diminishes until it slowly stops or is manually wound again. The solution created by Girard-Perregaux keeps the watch at constant and consistent regulated speed throughout this cycle.

This breakthrough (if indeed it is a breakthrough and time will tell) uses a 14 micron silicon buckled-blade, six times thinner than a human hair, which acts as a way to provide a repeated pulse to two escape wheels at a rate that is constant and consistent. This in turn provides the same consistent force of energy to the balance wheel. It beats at the frequency of 3 Hz or 21,600 vibrations per hour.

It is a bit more complicated than my explanation. There are detailed stories of how this process works at Hodinkee and Revolution that include Girard-Perregaux videos.

The operation of the escapement and its butterfly-shaped wing frame is clearly visible on the lower half of the dial. The hours and minutes occupy a sub-dial off-centered at 12 o’clock. This is flanked by two energy reservoirs in the shape of double barrels. The power reserve indicator is placed at 9 o’clock.

Tag Heuer Carrera MikroPendulumS
The Swiss luxury watch brand explains this as the first ever magnetic double tourbillion. Two magnetic pendulums replace hairsprings: one is for telling time and the other for timekeeping. The watch chain turns at 12Hz and its chronograph chain turns at 50Hz (60-minute power reserve). The chronograph tourbillon, the world’s fastest, says the watch brand, controls the 1/100th of a second, beats 360,000 an hour and rotates 12 times a minute.

The case is forged from a chrome and cobalt alloy used in aviation and surgery. It is biocompatible, harder than titanium, easier to shape and as luminous as white gold. The case design, with its stopwatch-like placement of the crown at 12 o’clock, is based on the 2012 Aiguille d’Or winner, the TAG Heuer Carrera Mikrogirder, and the Carrera 50 Year Anniversary Jack Heuer edition. The two tourbillon pendulums and their solid rose gold bridges (18K 5N) are visible through the fine-brushed anthracite dial. The hand applied “100” at 12 o’clock is in solid rose gold. The chronograph minutes counter is at 12 o’clock, chronograph seconds at 3, and the chronograph power reserve at 9. The 1/100th of a second scale appears on the silver flange.

Hublot Big Bang Unico Chrono
This is the first in a new line of products designed to house all future incarnations of the Unico movement. The iconic design of the Big Bang has evolved to contain the Unico, an in-house made column wheel chronograph movement with a dual horizontal coupling visible on the dial side. This marks the start of a new line of Hublot products designed to complete the Big Bang, Classic Fusion, King Power and Masterpieces ranges, the company said.

For the very first time since the creation of the Big Bang in 2005, the push-buttons are round. Each one is protected by a push-button guard integrated in the middle and finished like an engine piston. A skeleton dial reveals the movement. A minute counter is positioned at 3 o'clock and a small seconds counter at 9 o'clock. The date view is at 3 o'clock.

The HUB 1242 Unico manufacture movement is a flyback chronograph that can be reset at any time with two push-buttons. The hour counter is driven directly by the barrel, and there is no jumper in the chronograph mechanism. This simplification boosts reliability and robustness. Its silicon pallet fork and escapement wheel are fixed to a removable platform and are made from silicon. The movement has been trimmed to 330 components. It has a frequency of 4hz/28,800 vibrations per hour with a power reserve of about 72 hours.

Seiko Kinetic Direct Drive
Seiko made the world’s first kinetic watch 25 years ago that used the motion of the wearer to create the electrical energy to power a quartz movement. Using the mechanical energy of a traditional oscillating weight, the Kinetic rotor spins at up to 100,000 rpm, creating the electrical energy that drives the quartz movement without having to change the battery.

For the Kinetic Direct Drive caliber, not only does the rotor power the watch as one moves, but the wearer can also power it by turning the crown, just like a mechanical watch. In addition, when winding the crown, the power reserve changes function to become a real-time indicator of the energy that is imparted to the watch through the winding. 

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

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PPR To Become Kering

François-Henri Pinault, PPR chairman and CEO, poses with the company's new name and logo, which is expected to become official on June 18.

French holding group, PPR, said Friday that it will change its name and brand messaging to reflect its new identity as an international luxury, sports and lifestyle organization.

On June 18, subject to board approval, the new name for the company will be Kering (pronounced Caring). The Paris-based company said the new name reflects its culture of “taking care of our brands, people, stakeholders and the environment.” The suffix “ing” expresses the idea of movement, reflecting the diverse history of the 50-year-old company, which began as a trader of timber and construction materials. The stem “ker,” meaning home in Breton, refers to its origins in the Brittany region of France.

Since 2005, PPR has been undergoing a transformation from a conglomerate focused on primarily European distribution activities, to an international group focused on the apparel and accessories business across two fast growing segments that it defines as “Luxury” and “Sport & Lifestyle.” In a few months, the new group expects to leave the distribution sector completely, after disposing of Fnac and the remainder of online fashion retailer Redcats.

The company’s collection of brands include Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Brioni, Christopher Kane, Stella McCartney, Boucheron, Girard-Perregaux, Qeelin, Puma, Volcom, Cobra, Electric and Tretorn.

Laurent Claquin, head of PPR Americas, said the change in the company’s identity is a natural step in the group’s transformation.

“We are marking a transition from a conglomerate to an integrated group,” he said. “We are in the business of fashion. We are also part of the same group (as) a way to signify how we do our business with our brands and customers.”

Claquin refused to comment on published reports that the company is in the final stages of acquiring luxury Italian jewelry brand, Pomellato. “It is not the subject of the day,” he said.

Accompanying the new name are new symbols for the company and an international branding strategy over multiple platforms that it emphasis the creativity of its brands. A new video, website and advertising campaign and supporting items are among the ways the company intends to promote its new image. Digital media will be a centerpiece of the campaign. Follow this link to view the company's new video.

As part of the strategy, the company adopted a new symbol, the “untamed” owl, and even a company signature that reads: “empowering imagination.”

The owl is drawn from a single line, like a quick sketch, a doodle even, with outstretched wings and its face framed in a heart. This simple drawing expresses far reaching values, according to the company, from foresight, wisdom and intelligence to caring and respect.

Claquin emphasized that the new campaign is geared toward the B-2-B community and not the general public. “We don’t communicate through a general public,” he said. “We don’t want to be stronger than our brands but we do communicate to our target populations.”

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

François-Henri Pinault, PPR chairman and CEO, poses with the company's new name and logo, which is expected to become official on June 18.

French holding group, PPR, said Friday that it will change its name and brand messaging to reflect its new identity as an international luxury, sports and lifestyle organization.

On June 18, subject to board approval, the new name for the company will be Kering (pronounced Caring). The Paris-based company said the new name reflects its culture of “taking care of our brands, people, stakeholders and the environment.” The suffix “ing” expresses the idea of movement, reflecting the diverse history of the 50-year-old company, which began as a trader of timber and construction materials. The stem “ker,” meaning home in Breton, refers to its origins in the Brittany region of France.

Since 2005, PPR has been undergoing a transformation from a conglomerate focused on primarily European distribution activities, to an international group focused on the apparel and accessories business across two fast growing segments that it defines as “Luxury” and “Sport & Lifestyle.” In a few months, the new group expects to leave the distribution sector completely, after disposing of Fnac and the remainder of online fashion retailer Redcats.

The company’s collection of brands include Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Brioni, Christopher Kane, Stella McCartney, Boucheron, Girard-Perregaux, Qeelin, Puma, Volcom, Cobra, Electric and Tretorn.

Laurent Claquin, head of PPR Americas, said the change in the company’s identity is a natural step in the group’s transformation.

“We are marking a transition from a conglomerate to an integrated group,” he said. “We are in the business of fashion. We are also part of the same group (as) a way to signify how we do our business with our brands and customers.”

Claquin refused to comment on published reports that the company is in the final stages of acquiring luxury Italian jewelry brand, Pomellato. “It is not the subject of the day,” he said.

Accompanying the new name are new symbols for the company and an international branding strategy over multiple platforms that it emphasis the creativity of its brands. A new video, website and advertising campaign and supporting items are among the ways the company intends to promote its new image. Digital media will be a centerpiece of the campaign. Follow this link to view the company's new video.

As part of the strategy, the company adopted a new symbol, the “untamed” owl, and even a company signature that reads: “empowering imagination.”

The owl is drawn from a single line, like a quick sketch, a doodle even, with outstretched wings and its face framed in a heart. This simple drawing expresses far reaching values, according to the company, from foresight, wisdom and intelligence to caring and respect.

Claquin emphasized that the new campaign is geared toward the B-2-B community and not the general public. “We don’t communicate through a general public,” he said. “We don’t want to be stronger than our brands but we do communicate to our target populations.”

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

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Girard-Perregaux Presents Watch to Basketball Giant Yao Ming

Yao Ming with limited edition Chrono Hawk watch.

Luxury watch brand, Girard-Perregaux, presented NBA star Yao Ming with a Chrono Hawk timepiece during a gala honoring the seven-foot, six-inch basketball player for his achievements on and off the court.

Yao was honored by the Asia Society Southern California with its “Visionary of the Year” award at the organization’s annual gala, held Tuesday at the Millennium Biltmore Hotel.

The “Yao Ming” Chrono Hawk watch features a manufacture chronograph automatic movement housed in a 44mm stainless steel case. The rubber strap and sapphire caseback are embossed with Yao’s special symbol in vivid red. Girard-Perregaux only created two watches of this design. The second was auctioned at the event for $16,000.

The Yao Ming Chrono Hawk timepiece.

Yao is an eight-time All-Star center with the Houston Rockets and played on three Olympic basketball teams for China He is a veritable ambassador of the sport on behalf of China. In 2011, he became the founder and proprietor of Yao Family Wines, cabernets from Napa Valley. He is also a giant in the philanthropic world through his foundation and through partnerships with the Special Olympics and WildAid in its quest to prevent the eradication of sharks and African elephants.  

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Web site.

Yao Ming with limited edition Chrono Hawk watch.

Luxury watch brand, Girard-Perregaux, presented NBA star Yao Ming with a Chrono Hawk timepiece during a gala honoring the seven-foot, six-inch basketball player for his achievements on and off the court.

Yao was honored by the Asia Society Southern California with its “Visionary of the Year” award at the organization’s annual gala, held Tuesday at the Millennium Biltmore Hotel.

The “Yao Ming” Chrono Hawk watch features a manufacture chronograph automatic movement housed in a 44mm stainless steel case. The rubber strap and sapphire caseback are embossed with Yao’s special symbol in vivid red. Girard-Perregaux only created two watches of this design. The second was auctioned at the event for $16,000.

The Yao Ming Chrono Hawk timepiece.

Yao is an eight-time All-Star center with the Houston Rockets and played on three Olympic basketball teams for China He is a veritable ambassador of the sport on behalf of China. In 2011, he became the founder and proprietor of Yao Family Wines, cabernets from Napa Valley. He is also a giant in the philanthropic world through his foundation and through partnerships with the Special Olympics and WildAid in its quest to prevent the eradication of sharks and African elephants.  

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Web site.

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The Exceptional Jewelry News Network Holiday Luxury Watch Guide

Check out the 11 timepieces below for men and women that would make anyone feel special this holiday season.

The 39mm diameter Montblanc Star Classique has eight indices and four numerals plated with gold, as are the leaf-shaped hour-hand and minute-hand. The little second-hand turns its circles on a subdial in the shape of the iconic Montblanc emblem at 6 o'clock. The sapphire crystal caseback reveals the self winding mechanical caliber MB 4810/408 with its ball-borne winding rotor and golden balance. It retails for $10,450 and is available at select Montblanc boutiques and retail locations.

The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Self-Winding is a classic watch from the oldest manufacturer of fine timepieces. It reveals its timeless character through details such as the slender bezel, the knurled motif on the screw-down case-back, 18k pink gold, applied hour-markers, and elegant dauphine hands. The gold case frames an opaline silver-toned dial punctuated by 18k pink gold hour-markers. The 41mm case houses an ultra-thin Calibre 1120. It retails for is $31,300. It is available at Vacheron Constantin boutiques in New York, Las Vegas, and Costa Mesa, Calif., or by calling 877-862-7555 for the nearest retailer.

The Girard-Perregaux Cat's Eye features 150 emerald-cut diamonds on its white gold case, 102 emerald-cut diamonds on its dial and 13 baguette diamonds on its black satin strap with ardillon buckle in white gold. It retails for $405,000 and is available at the Girard-Perregaux Boutique, 701 Madison Avenue, NYC. Phone: 646 495 9915.

Baume & Mercier Capeland 10088 is the brand’s first limited edition men's timepiece for Tourneau in the U.S. The 44mm automatic flyback chronograph has a blue tachymeter and black telemeter. It is distinguished by a copper-colored dial and a sapphire crystal caseback. The case is polished and satin-finished steel with an anti-glare face. It’s limited to 250 pieces, each one is numbered. It retails for $7,900 and is available at select Tourneau stores nationwide.

The Franc Vila FVi17 Chrono Bicompax contains the FVi Nº 7 Tourbillon Intrepido. This watch is designed to be sporty and elegant. There are two chronograph subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock with a date indicator at 6 o’clock. The black case is made of titanium, a material Vila favors for lightweight and durability. The complicated movement is caliber FV17, with the exclusive “Gold Concept Rotor.” It has a power reserve of 42 hours. It retails for $20,700. Visit francvila.com to view dealers of Franc Vila watches.

The Girard-Perregaux 1966 Equation of Time has a rose gold case and annual calendar. Then of course, there's the "equation of time" complication, which measure the difference between apparent solar time and mean solar time—perhaps the most esoteric of all measurements of time. It's shown with a gauge that measures the variance from +15m to -15m. It retails for $32,860 and is available at the Girard-Perregaux Boutique, 701 Madison Avenue, NYC. Phone: 646 495 9915.

A convex sapphire crystal and see-through case back give a glimpse of its inner workings of the Frederique Constant Worldtimer Manufacture. The dial comes in silver, with an engraved guilloche design or a detailed world map in the center. All functions are accessed by using the crown; there are no extra push buttons sticking out from the ultra-smooth and polished sides of the case. The Worldtimer function is achieved by selecting the desired city and placing it at the 12 o'clock position on the dial. Internal discs automatically synchronize, and after that, it’s possible to see what time it is in any of the 24 cities on the dial. It is limited edition collection of 1,888 pieces. It retails for $3,450 and is available at Bloomingdales.com.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre AMVOX7 Chronograph is inspired by the Aston Martin Vanquish, this watch has a titanium case with satin-finished lugs. A pivot mechanism allows the functions of the chronograph to be operated by pressing on the watch crystal. The chronograph function can be started or stopped by pressing the watch glass at 12’clock, while pressing at 6 o'clock resets to zero. The retail price is $26,000. Visit www.jaeger-lecoultre.com for purchasing information.

Frederique Constant Automatic Ladies Watch with Diamond features 56 diamonds. Hearts grace the inside of the dial while diamonds are used as hour indicators. It retails for $4,250 and is available at Bloomingdales.com.

The JeanRichard 1681 Collection is available in two versions: one with three hands and a date display, the other with a date display and small second display and in two colors, steel and pink gold. The time display appears against a classical rail-track minute circle. The three-hand version has applied Arabic numerals in a similar style to the hour-markers; the small second display at 9 o’clock counterbalances the date. The oscillating weight of the calibre JR1000, bearing the new signature of the brand, can be seen through the screw-in case-back. The 1681 pictured retails for $6,400 and is available at Kenjo Watches in New York.

Baume & Mercier Linea 10036 ladies watch comes with a double wrap strap in the light brown calfskin, however, there are several other colored bands (single and double) that may be interchanged. The 27mm round watch has a satin finish and a quartz movement. It retails for $1,950 with the interchangeable bands $200 each. Call 1-800-Mercier for purchasing information.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Web site.

Check out the 11 timepieces below for men and women that would make anyone feel special this holiday season.

The 39mm diameter Montblanc Star Classique has eight indices and four numerals plated with gold, as are the leaf-shaped hour-hand and minute-hand. The little second-hand turns its circles on a subdial in the shape of the iconic Montblanc emblem at 6 o'clock. The sapphire crystal caseback reveals the self winding mechanical caliber MB 4810/408 with its ball-borne winding rotor and golden balance. It retails for $10,450 and is available at select Montblanc boutiques and retail locations.

The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Self-Winding is a classic watch from the oldest manufacturer of fine timepieces. It reveals its timeless character through details such as the slender bezel, the knurled motif on the screw-down case-back, 18k pink gold, applied hour-markers, and elegant dauphine hands. The gold case frames an opaline silver-toned dial punctuated by 18k pink gold hour-markers. The 41mm case houses an ultra-thin Calibre 1120. It retails for is $31,300. It is available at Vacheron Constantin boutiques in New York, Las Vegas, and Costa Mesa, Calif., or by calling 877-862-7555 for the nearest retailer.

The Girard-Perregaux Cat's Eye features 150 emerald-cut diamonds on its white gold case, 102 emerald-cut diamonds on its dial and 13 baguette diamonds on its black satin strap with ardillon buckle in white gold. It retails for $405,000 and is available at the Girard-Perregaux Boutique, 701 Madison Avenue, NYC. Phone: 646 495 9915.

Baume & Mercier Capeland 10088 is the brand’s first limited edition men's timepiece for Tourneau in the U.S. The 44mm automatic flyback chronograph has a blue tachymeter and black telemeter. It is distinguished by a copper-colored dial and a sapphire crystal caseback. The case is polished and satin-finished steel with an anti-glare face. It’s limited to 250 pieces, each one is numbered. It retails for $7,900 and is available at select Tourneau stores nationwide.

The Franc Vila FVi17 Chrono Bicompax contains the FVi Nº 7 Tourbillon Intrepido. This watch is designed to be sporty and elegant. There are two chronograph subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock with a date indicator at 6 o’clock. The black case is made of titanium, a material Vila favors for lightweight and durability. The complicated movement is caliber FV17, with the exclusive “Gold Concept Rotor.” It has a power reserve of 42 hours. It retails for $20,700. Visit francvila.com to view dealers of Franc Vila watches.

The Girard-Perregaux 1966 Equation of Time has a rose gold case and annual calendar. Then of course, there's the "equation of time" complication, which measure the difference between apparent solar time and mean solar time—perhaps the most esoteric of all measurements of time. It's shown with a gauge that measures the variance from +15m to -15m. It retails for $32,860 and is available at the Girard-Perregaux Boutique, 701 Madison Avenue, NYC. Phone: 646 495 9915.

A convex sapphire crystal and see-through case back give a glimpse of its inner workings of the Frederique Constant Worldtimer Manufacture. The dial comes in silver, with an engraved guilloche design or a detailed world map in the center. All functions are accessed by using the crown; there are no extra push buttons sticking out from the ultra-smooth and polished sides of the case. The Worldtimer function is achieved by selecting the desired city and placing it at the 12 o'clock position on the dial. Internal discs automatically synchronize, and after that, it’s possible to see what time it is in any of the 24 cities on the dial. It is limited edition collection of 1,888 pieces. It retails for $3,450 and is available at Bloomingdales.com.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre AMVOX7 Chronograph is inspired by the Aston Martin Vanquish, this watch has a titanium case with satin-finished lugs. A pivot mechanism allows the functions of the chronograph to be operated by pressing on the watch crystal. The chronograph function can be started or stopped by pressing the watch glass at 12’clock, while pressing at 6 o'clock resets to zero. The retail price is $26,000. Visit www.jaeger-lecoultre.com for purchasing information.

Frederique Constant Automatic Ladies Watch with Diamond features 56 diamonds. Hearts grace the inside of the dial while diamonds are used as hour indicators. It retails for $4,250 and is available at Bloomingdales.com.

The JeanRichard 1681 Collection is available in two versions: one with three hands and a date display, the other with a date display and small second display and in two colors, steel and pink gold. The time display appears against a classical rail-track minute circle. The three-hand version has applied Arabic numerals in a similar style to the hour-markers; the small second display at 9 o’clock counterbalances the date. The oscillating weight of the calibre JR1000, bearing the new signature of the brand, can be seen through the screw-in case-back. The 1681 pictured retails for $6,400 and is available at Kenjo Watches in New York.

Baume & Mercier Linea 10036 ladies watch comes with a double wrap strap in the light brown calfskin, however, there are several other colored bands (single and double) that may be interchanged. The 27mm round watch has a satin finish and a quartz movement. It retails for $1,950 with the interchangeable bands $200 each. Call 1-800-Mercier for purchasing information.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Web site.

reade more... Résuméabuiyad

PPR Shopping for Luxury Jewelry and Watch Brands

François-Henri Pinault. Photo credit: InDigital Media Group

NEW YORK — French holdings company, PPR, is on the lookout for luxury jewelry and watch brands to strengthen its portfolio and meet demands in the booming Asian region.

François-Henri Pinault, chairman and CEO of the company that owns brands in the luxury, sports and lifestyle markets, said PPR identified a weakness in its portfolio in the growing men’s luxury segment. To rectify this it took control of the Sowind Group, which owns the Swiss luxury watch brands, Girard-Perregaux and JeanRichard. Then it acquired the Italian men’s fashion brand, Brioni.

The company already owns the French luxury jewelry brand, Boucheron, which it purchased in 2000. However, Sowind and Boucheron are the only companies it owns in the “hard luxuries” segment of the market. PPR primarily operates internationally in the apparel and accessories sectors in the luxury market and what it identifies as the “Sports & Lifestyle” market. Its luxury brands include Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Alexander McQueen and Balenciaga.

He said PPR will pursue hard luxury brands. “We are looking to any opportunities in jewelry and watches, particularly in Asia,” he said. “It is very important in Asia.”

Pinault made these comments Wednesday following a breakfast presentation at the Consulate General of France. During the event, he gave his views on a range of topics, including the growth of Asian market, the strategy of his diverse holdings company, and e-commerce and digital media.

Pinault said that for 50 years the growth in population and wealth in the world (800 million consumers) was centered in the U.S. and Japan. However, in 2006 the company identified that economic growth has shifted to emerging markets—particularly China, India, Brazil, and more recently, Indonesia—bringing 3 billion consumers to the worldwide market, and that this trend will continue.

“It means that in the next 50 years the growth is amazing,” Pinault said. “We don’t have any idea what it will be. We are always referring to the past but it’s no use. We cannot compare 3 billion people with more and more purchasing power to 800 million in the past… The question is what should we do to take advantage of those opportunities of growth?”

The company already made a decision to enter the luxury market in 1999. However, in 2006, it began to drastically change its portfolio to enter the sports and lifestyle segments. In 2007, it purchased Puma as the centerpiece of this new strategy.

Then, he said, the company needed to identify two areas of growth in this segment that would not compete with the footwear and sportswear company. It chose action sports, which led to the 2011 acquisition in Volcom, and the outdoors market segment.

PPR then took a giant step toward shoring up its e-commerce and digital media strategy by forming a joint-venture with online retail specialist Yoox to administer the e-commerce operations of most of its luxury brands.

Pinault says PPR’s digital media strategy has two parts. First, it needed what acquire the skill set, which resulted in the partnership with Yoox. Now it will try to create an experience that is similar to what customers get from going to one of its branded stores.

“You cannot offer an experience to your customer in the stores that’s completely different from the experience that you’re offering online,” he said. “You go to a Gucci store for the experience rather than mainstream stores. You have to reproduce that online.”

He continued, “The next step is to transform the e-commerce experience, our luxury experience, like it is in the stores. It will show that we can reproduce this conversation online.”

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Web site.

François-Henri Pinault. Photo credit: InDigital Media Group

NEW YORK — French holdings company, PPR, is on the lookout for luxury jewelry and watch brands to strengthen its portfolio and meet demands in the booming Asian region.

François-Henri Pinault, chairman and CEO of the company that owns brands in the luxury, sports and lifestyle markets, said PPR identified a weakness in its portfolio in the growing men’s luxury segment. To rectify this it took control of the Sowind Group, which owns the Swiss luxury watch brands, Girard-Perregaux and JeanRichard. Then it acquired the Italian men’s fashion brand, Brioni.

The company already owns the French luxury jewelry brand, Boucheron, which it purchased in 2000. However, Sowind and Boucheron are the only companies it owns in the “hard luxuries” segment of the market. PPR primarily operates internationally in the apparel and accessories sectors in the luxury market and what it identifies as the “Sports & Lifestyle” market. Its luxury brands include Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Alexander McQueen and Balenciaga.

He said PPR will pursue hard luxury brands. “We are looking to any opportunities in jewelry and watches, particularly in Asia,” he said. “It is very important in Asia.”

Pinault made these comments Wednesday following a breakfast presentation at the Consulate General of France. During the event, he gave his views on a range of topics, including the growth of Asian market, the strategy of his diverse holdings company, and e-commerce and digital media.

Pinault said that for 50 years the growth in population and wealth in the world (800 million consumers) was centered in the U.S. and Japan. However, in 2006 the company identified that economic growth has shifted to emerging markets—particularly China, India, Brazil, and more recently, Indonesia—bringing 3 billion consumers to the worldwide market, and that this trend will continue.

“It means that in the next 50 years the growth is amazing,” Pinault said. “We don’t have any idea what it will be. We are always referring to the past but it’s no use. We cannot compare 3 billion people with more and more purchasing power to 800 million in the past… The question is what should we do to take advantage of those opportunities of growth?”

The company already made a decision to enter the luxury market in 1999. However, in 2006, it began to drastically change its portfolio to enter the sports and lifestyle segments. In 2007, it purchased Puma as the centerpiece of this new strategy.

Then, he said, the company needed to identify two areas of growth in this segment that would not compete with the footwear and sportswear company. It chose action sports, which led to the 2011 acquisition in Volcom, and the outdoors market segment.

PPR then took a giant step toward shoring up its e-commerce and digital media strategy by forming a joint-venture with online retail specialist Yoox to administer the e-commerce operations of most of its luxury brands.

Pinault says PPR’s digital media strategy has two parts. First, it needed what acquire the skill set, which resulted in the partnership with Yoox. Now it will try to create an experience that is similar to what customers get from going to one of its branded stores.

“You cannot offer an experience to your customer in the stores that’s completely different from the experience that you’re offering online,” he said. “You go to a Gucci store for the experience rather than mainstream stores. You have to reproduce that online.”

He continued, “The next step is to transform the e-commerce experience, our luxury experience, like it is in the stores. It will show that we can reproduce this conversation online.”

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Web site.

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The Girard-Perregaux Unveils 1966 in 41 Millimeters

The latest edition of the Girard-Perregaux 1966 timepiece comes in a new size of 41 millimeters and in pink gold. Its opaline surface reveals a slightly curved dial with 15-minute markers that take the form of slender batons. The two leaf-shaped hands are joined by a central seconds hand in blue steel, while the date is visible at 3 o’clock.

The enlarged case is adapted to the dimensions of the self-winding mechanical caliber GP4500, designed at the manufacture’s R&D department and produced and assembled in its workshops. Composed of 188 pieces, the caliber has a power reserve of 54 hours. Its pink gold oscillating weight, engraved with the name of the brand, is adorned with Côtes de Genève decoration.

An alligator strap with pink gold pin buckle is the finishing touch on this classic timepiece that retails for $16,500.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page and on Twitter  @JewelryNewsNet.

The latest edition of the Girard-Perregaux 1966 timepiece comes in a new size of 41 millimeters and in pink gold. Its opaline surface reveals a slightly curved dial with 15-minute markers that take the form of slender batons. The two leaf-shaped hands are joined by a central seconds hand in blue steel, while the date is visible at 3 o’clock.

The enlarged case is adapted to the dimensions of the self-winding mechanical caliber GP4500, designed at the manufacture’s R&D department and produced and assembled in its workshops. Composed of 188 pieces, the caliber has a power reserve of 54 hours. Its pink gold oscillating weight, engraved with the name of the brand, is adorned with Côtes de Genève decoration.

An alligator strap with pink gold pin buckle is the finishing touch on this classic timepiece that retails for $16,500.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page and on Twitter  @JewelryNewsNet.

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Girard-Perregaux’s U.S. President Goes After the Aspirational Consumer

Michael Margolis

You may remember in February a piece on Michael Margolis being named as U.S. president of Girard-Perregaux. Well I caught up with Margolis in June and we discussed what he's been doing along with his future plans for the luxury watch brand.

It’s been a busy time for Margolis. In that short time span, he was involved in updating the brand’s website, helped build a new advertising campaign, started a lifestyle blog and made a key personnel change at the Girard-Perregaux’s boutique in New York.

One of the major reasons for all of these changes is to attract the younger aspirational customer to the venerable Swiss luxury watch brand.

“I think our average customer today is probably 45 or 50 years old. We love our 45- and 50-year-old customers,” Margolis said. “But we also need the 25- and 30-year-old customer. We need the young guys who have their first big job and they’re going to reward themselves with a watch.… We need that aspirational G-P buyer. I want the 15-year-old kid who looks through a watch magazine and I want him cutting a picture of our watch out and posting it on his refrigerator and telling his parents: ‘Someday I’m going to own that watch.’”

There are probably few people in the Swiss watch industry who understand this perspective more than Margolis, who is an outsider in a largely inbred industry. His background is in the high-tech industry but has always been a passionate watch collector. Through his passion he became a forum moderator at timezone.com, a popular website for watch enthusiasts.

“I was a watch fanatic,” he said. “So I bring a little different perspective to the table. I bring a consumer’s perspective, a collector’s perspective. I see things a little differently I think because I’ve been to the other side of the counter. Most of the people were born in the industry.”

In 2005, Margolis was approached by Jean-Claude Biver, a very successful figure in the Swiss watch industry, who at the time was working for the Swatch Group. He told Margolis his plan to take over and rebuild a dormant watch brand. Biver wanted Margolis to manage a forum on Timezone about the brand. The brand was Hublot, which under Biver’s leadership, experienced spectacular growth to become one of the world’s best-known watch brands. During this time (2005 – 2012), Margolis’ role grew into communications director and eventually sales director of the brand.

Margolis is using his high-tech background, his communications and sales skills, his understanding of the passionate watch customer, and his newly acquired Swiss watch industry experience, to create ways to appeal to watch lovers in the modern world.

One of the most creative ways Margolis is attracting both the current Girard-Perregaux client and the aspiration person is by the creation of the Mechanics of Style blog. It is basically an online luxury lifestyle publication with articles from professional writers on a variety of topics, including food, travel, wine and spirits, sports, collectibles and just about anything that would be of interest to the timepiece connoisseur.

“We’re talking about all kinds of things that a person who buys a Girard-Perregaux or another watch might be interested in, such as custom shirts, fragrances, espresso machines, wine and cigars,” he said. “I won’t say it’s completely independent of Girard-Perregaux because it’s not. There’s some history and some facts and some fun things about GP as well. We have the World Timer watch that’s been an icon of GP for many years. We have a travel segment where we’re visiting all 24 of the cities that are on the World Timer’s bezel. It will be a 24-month campaign to visit all the cities on the dial.”

The website, which was not discussed during the interview, is a sleek, fast site that doesn’t use flash, which I consider groundbreaking. In the stodgy world of luxury Swiss watches and luxury in general, the industry has seemed incapable of letting go of the slow, cumbersome flash platform. Featured prominently on the new site is the company’s new advertising campaign. It focuses on a group of the band’s young watch makers, discussing their passion for the trade and their interests outside of work. The campaign includes an ongoing world tour where the young watchmakers give one-on-one workshops to watch connoisseurs and guests for insight on watchmaking and how complicated timepieces are built.

On the retail level, Margolis hired a new manager at its Madison Avenue boutique, the only brand-specific, brand-operated Girard-Perregaux boutique in the world: Chip Henderson, a veteran watch retailer.

“He’s not a guy who grew up in the industry,” Margolis said. “He’s a guy who has passion for the product and he’s exactly what we need for our Madison Avenue boutique.”

Margolis has big plans for the boutique.

“I want to turn the boutique into what I’m calling a Girard-Perregaux embassy. Yes of course it’s a retail space where a customer can come in and buy a watch and we don’t apologize for that. But I want it to be much more than that. I want it to be where the customer can come, he can be educated, he can buy just a strap for his watch, he can learn about the brand. We have a full-time watchmaker on staff. When you walk in the door he’s right in front of you. We take in a tremendous amount of repairs. We have repair facilities in the U.S. but it’s rare that brand boutiques on Madison have a watchmaker on staff so we’re very happy about that.”

Margolis said Girard-Perregaux has no plans to build more boutiques. Instead, it will continue to enhance its relationships with its retailers.

“My opinion as a watch guy is that we are manufacturers and distributors and wholesalers. It’s not our place to be retailers,” he said. “We have a number of boutiques in China but they’re all owned by retailers. The only boutique that we have in the world that’s not owned by a retailer is Madison Avenue and if you look at the rent structure for what a square-foot of space on Madison Avenue in the 60s costs, it’s nearly impossible for a retailer to make a business model that works. For us, the boutique becomes an advertising expense.”

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page and on Twitter  @JewelryNewsNet.

Michael Margolis

You may remember in February a piece on Michael Margolis being named as U.S. president of Girard-Perregaux. Well I caught up with Margolis in June and we discussed what he's been doing along with his future plans for the luxury watch brand.

It’s been a busy time for Margolis. In that short time span, he was involved in updating the brand’s website, helped build a new advertising campaign, started a lifestyle blog and made a key personnel change at the Girard-Perregaux’s boutique in New York.

One of the major reasons for all of these changes is to attract the younger aspirational customer to the venerable Swiss luxury watch brand.

“I think our average customer today is probably 45 or 50 years old. We love our 45- and 50-year-old customers,” Margolis said. “But we also need the 25- and 30-year-old customer. We need the young guys who have their first big job and they’re going to reward themselves with a watch.… We need that aspirational G-P buyer. I want the 15-year-old kid who looks through a watch magazine and I want him cutting a picture of our watch out and posting it on his refrigerator and telling his parents: ‘Someday I’m going to own that watch.’”

There are probably few people in the Swiss watch industry who understand this perspective more than Margolis, who is an outsider in a largely inbred industry. His background is in the high-tech industry but has always been a passionate watch collector. Through his passion he became a forum moderator at timezone.com, a popular website for watch enthusiasts.

“I was a watch fanatic,” he said. “So I bring a little different perspective to the table. I bring a consumer’s perspective, a collector’s perspective. I see things a little differently I think because I’ve been to the other side of the counter. Most of the people were born in the industry.”

In 2005, Margolis was approached by Jean-Claude Biver, a very successful figure in the Swiss watch industry, who at the time was working for the Swatch Group. He told Margolis his plan to take over and rebuild a dormant watch brand. Biver wanted Margolis to manage a forum on Timezone about the brand. The brand was Hublot, which under Biver’s leadership, experienced spectacular growth to become one of the world’s best-known watch brands. During this time (2005 – 2012), Margolis’ role grew into communications director and eventually sales director of the brand.

Margolis is using his high-tech background, his communications and sales skills, his understanding of the passionate watch customer, and his newly acquired Swiss watch industry experience, to create ways to appeal to watch lovers in the modern world.

One of the most creative ways Margolis is attracting both the current Girard-Perregaux client and the aspiration person is by the creation of the Mechanics of Style blog. It is basically an online luxury lifestyle publication with articles from professional writers on a variety of topics, including food, travel, wine and spirits, sports, collectibles and just about anything that would be of interest to the timepiece connoisseur.

“We’re talking about all kinds of things that a person who buys a Girard-Perregaux or another watch might be interested in, such as custom shirts, fragrances, espresso machines, wine and cigars,” he said. “I won’t say it’s completely independent of Girard-Perregaux because it’s not. There’s some history and some facts and some fun things about GP as well. We have the World Timer watch that’s been an icon of GP for many years. We have a travel segment where we’re visiting all 24 of the cities that are on the World Timer’s bezel. It will be a 24-month campaign to visit all the cities on the dial.”

The website, which was not discussed during the interview, is a sleek, fast site that doesn’t use flash, which I consider groundbreaking. In the stodgy world of luxury Swiss watches and luxury in general, the industry has seemed incapable of letting go of the slow, cumbersome flash platform. Featured prominently on the new site is the company’s new advertising campaign. It focuses on a group of the band’s young watch makers, discussing their passion for the trade and their interests outside of work. The campaign includes an ongoing world tour where the young watchmakers give one-on-one workshops to watch connoisseurs and guests for insight on watchmaking and how complicated timepieces are built.

On the retail level, Margolis hired a new manager at its Madison Avenue boutique, the only brand-specific, brand-operated Girard-Perregaux boutique in the world: Chip Henderson, a veteran watch retailer.

“He’s not a guy who grew up in the industry,” Margolis said. “He’s a guy who has passion for the product and he’s exactly what we need for our Madison Avenue boutique.”

Margolis has big plans for the boutique.

“I want to turn the boutique into what I’m calling a Girard-Perregaux embassy. Yes of course it’s a retail space where a customer can come in and buy a watch and we don’t apologize for that. But I want it to be much more than that. I want it to be where the customer can come, he can be educated, he can buy just a strap for his watch, he can learn about the brand. We have a full-time watchmaker on staff. When you walk in the door he’s right in front of you. We take in a tremendous amount of repairs. We have repair facilities in the U.S. but it’s rare that brand boutiques on Madison have a watchmaker on staff so we’re very happy about that.”

Margolis said Girard-Perregaux has no plans to build more boutiques. Instead, it will continue to enhance its relationships with its retailers.

“My opinion as a watch guy is that we are manufacturers and distributors and wholesalers. It’s not our place to be retailers,” he said. “We have a number of boutiques in China but they’re all owned by retailers. The only boutique that we have in the world that’s not owned by a retailer is Madison Avenue and if you look at the rent structure for what a square-foot of space on Madison Avenue in the 60s costs, it’s nearly impossible for a retailer to make a business model that works. For us, the boutique becomes an advertising expense.”

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page and on Twitter  @JewelryNewsNet.

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