Largest Known Orange Diamond May Fetch $20 Million at Auction

The largest fancy vivid orange diamond ever to appear at auction will be the top lot in Christie’s Magnificent Jewels sale to be held in Geneva on November 12. Weighing approximately 14.82 carats, this diamond, being called “The Orange,” is expected to fetch between $17 million and $20 million.

Pure orange diamonds, also named ‘Fire diamonds’ by gemologist Edwin Streeter in his book The Great Diamonds of the World (1882), are exceptionally rare in nature. It is more common to find orange diamonds with secondary colors. The orange color is the result of the presence of nitrogen during the diamond's creation. Among the very few fancy vivid orange diamonds that were ever sold at auction, the largest was less than 6 carats. “The Orange” is more than double that size.

At 5.54 carats, the Pumpkin diamond was largely considered to be the largest known fancy vivid orange diamond. It was purchased by Ronald Winston for $1.3 million and made into a ring by Winston and Phillip Bloch. Best Actress winner Halle Berry wore the ring to the 2002 Academy Awards.

A 4.19 carat fancy vivid orange diamond sold for a record price of $2.95 million in October 2011 at a Sotheby’s auction.

The Gemological Institute of America, which graded the diamond and issued its report, recently said: “Strongly colored diamonds in the orange hue range rarely exceed three or four carats in size when polished. (This diamond) is almost four times larger than that size range. In GIA’s colored diamond grading system, as the color appearance of strongly colored diamonds transitions from orangy yellow to orange the occurrence becomes progressively more rare—that is—the less yellow present the more rarely they occur.”

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

The largest fancy vivid orange diamond ever to appear at auction will be the top lot in Christie’s Magnificent Jewels sale to be held in Geneva on November 12. Weighing approximately 14.82 carats, this diamond, being called “The Orange,” is expected to fetch between $17 million and $20 million.

Pure orange diamonds, also named ‘Fire diamonds’ by gemologist Edwin Streeter in his book The Great Diamonds of the World (1882), are exceptionally rare in nature. It is more common to find orange diamonds with secondary colors. The orange color is the result of the presence of nitrogen during the diamond's creation. Among the very few fancy vivid orange diamonds that were ever sold at auction, the largest was less than 6 carats. “The Orange” is more than double that size.

At 5.54 carats, the Pumpkin diamond was largely considered to be the largest known fancy vivid orange diamond. It was purchased by Ronald Winston for $1.3 million and made into a ring by Winston and Phillip Bloch. Best Actress winner Halle Berry wore the ring to the 2002 Academy Awards.

A 4.19 carat fancy vivid orange diamond sold for a record price of $2.95 million in October 2011 at a Sotheby’s auction.

The Gemological Institute of America, which graded the diamond and issued its report, recently said: “Strongly colored diamonds in the orange hue range rarely exceed three or four carats in size when polished. (This diamond) is almost four times larger than that size range. In GIA’s colored diamond grading system, as the color appearance of strongly colored diamonds transitions from orangy yellow to orange the occurrence becomes progressively more rare—that is—the less yellow present the more rarely they occur.”

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

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Gina Lollobrigida’s Natural Pearl Ear Pendants Breaks Elizabeth Taylor’s Auction Record, Sells for $2.4 Million

Gina Lollobrigida wearing the diamond necklace/bracelet combination, Bulgari, 1954, as a tiara and the record-breaking natural pearl and diamond pendant earrings.

Jewels belonging to movie legend Gina Lollobrigida sold at Sotheby’s Geneva Tuesday for more than $4.9 million (including buyers’ premium), smashing the high estimate of $3.2 million.

The star of evening was a pair of natural pearl and diamond pendant earrings, believed to have been owned by the House of Habsburg, which sold for nearly $2.4 million—an an auction record for a pair of natural pearl ear pendants, beating the figure set by Elizabeth Taylor’s pearl earrings in 2011. Lollobrigida wore those earrings on numerous landmark occasions in her career.

Buyers from around the world also clamored for seminal pieces from the 1950s and 1960s by Bulgari, the auction house said. Lollobrigida is donating her proceeds from the sale to benefit stem cell research. Among the highlights:

* A diamond necklace/bracelet combination, Bulgari, 1954, which realized $783,851, well above the $500,000 high estimate. The necklace was identified by Daniela Mascetti as one of Bulgari’s most important creations in her book Bulgari. Lollobrigida was seen wearing this jewel on key moments in her professional and personal life, including when she received her 1961 Golden Globe for World Film Favorite – Female.

* A diamond ring set with a cushion-shaped diamond weighing 19.03 carats, Bulgari, 1962, which brought $783,851.

* A pair of emerald and diamond earclips, Bulgari, 1964, which sold for $306,633.

* An emerald and diamond ring, Bulgari, 1964, set with a step-cut emerald weighing 16.62 carats which fetched $181,050.

View Gina Lollobrigida’s jewels in the Sotheby’s Geneva auction.

Speaking after the sale, Lollobrigida said: “Jewels are meant to give pleasure and for many years I had enormous pleasure wearing mine. Many people tried to persuade me to sell them, but for a very long time I was unwilling. What changed was seeing a little girl called Sofia suffering from a disorder, which could only be helped by stem cell treatment—treatment which she is unable to receive in Italy. Selling my jewels to help raise awareness of stem cell therapy, which can cure so many illnesses, seems to me a wonderful use to which to put them. It is my hope that the Italian parliament will approve this ground-breaking treatment, so that children and adults in Italy should have free access to it without having to travel abroad at great expense. It now gives me great pleasure to see that these jewels will create a legacy which will live on after me and continue to do good.”

Lollobrigida’s collection was the centerpiece of Sotheby’s Magnificent and Noble Jewels sale Tuesday, which saw nearly 650 lots selling for a combined total of $78.2 million. 

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

Gina Lollobrigida wearing the diamond necklace/bracelet combination, Bulgari, 1954, as a tiara and the record-breaking natural pearl and diamond pendant earrings.

Jewels belonging to movie legend Gina Lollobrigida sold at Sotheby’s Geneva Tuesday for more than $4.9 million (including buyers’ premium), smashing the high estimate of $3.2 million.

The star of evening was a pair of natural pearl and diamond pendant earrings, believed to have been owned by the House of Habsburg, which sold for nearly $2.4 million—an an auction record for a pair of natural pearl ear pendants, beating the figure set by Elizabeth Taylor’s pearl earrings in 2011. Lollobrigida wore those earrings on numerous landmark occasions in her career.

Buyers from around the world also clamored for seminal pieces from the 1950s and 1960s by Bulgari, the auction house said. Lollobrigida is donating her proceeds from the sale to benefit stem cell research. Among the highlights:

* A diamond necklace/bracelet combination, Bulgari, 1954, which realized $783,851, well above the $500,000 high estimate. The necklace was identified by Daniela Mascetti as one of Bulgari’s most important creations in her book Bulgari. Lollobrigida was seen wearing this jewel on key moments in her professional and personal life, including when she received her 1961 Golden Globe for World Film Favorite – Female.

* A diamond ring set with a cushion-shaped diamond weighing 19.03 carats, Bulgari, 1962, which brought $783,851.

* A pair of emerald and diamond earclips, Bulgari, 1964, which sold for $306,633.

* An emerald and diamond ring, Bulgari, 1964, set with a step-cut emerald weighing 16.62 carats which fetched $181,050.

View Gina Lollobrigida’s jewels in the Sotheby’s Geneva auction.

Speaking after the sale, Lollobrigida said: “Jewels are meant to give pleasure and for many years I had enormous pleasure wearing mine. Many people tried to persuade me to sell them, but for a very long time I was unwilling. What changed was seeing a little girl called Sofia suffering from a disorder, which could only be helped by stem cell treatment—treatment which she is unable to receive in Italy. Selling my jewels to help raise awareness of stem cell therapy, which can cure so many illnesses, seems to me a wonderful use to which to put them. It is my hope that the Italian parliament will approve this ground-breaking treatment, so that children and adults in Italy should have free access to it without having to travel abroad at great expense. It now gives me great pleasure to see that these jewels will create a legacy which will live on after me and continue to do good.”

Lollobrigida’s collection was the centerpiece of Sotheby’s Magnificent and Noble Jewels sale Tuesday, which saw nearly 650 lots selling for a combined total of $78.2 million. 

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

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A Look at Gina Lollobrigida’s Bulgari Jewels

Natural pearl and diamond pendants, Bulgari, 1964, worn by Lollobrigida when she met Princess Margaret at The Taming of the Shrew premiere in London in 1967. Estimate: $600,000 - $1 million

Throughout her long and varied career as an actress, artist and humanitarian, one thing remained a constant in Gina Lollobrigida’s life: Her relationship with Italian luxury jewelry house, Bulgari.

19.03-ct. diamond ring, Bulgari, 1962; Estimate: $400,000 - $800,000

As previously reported, Lollobrigida is selling 23 pieces of jewelry from her Bulgari collection at Sotheby’s Geneva on May 14. Those who have followed the 85-year-old actress’ career, particularly during her height of international popularity in the 1950s and ‘60s, will recognize the items as they were all worn by her during special moments in her life.

Diamond necklace/bracelet combination, Bulgari, 1954, worn by the actress as a tiara during her 1961 Golden Globe for World Film Favorite – Female. Estimate: $300,000 - $500,000

The pictures that accompany this article are some of the highlights of the upcoming sale. Proceeds from the sale will benefit stem cell research, which she describes as a “very close cause to my heart.”

27.57-ct. emerald and diamond brooch, Bulgari, 1964; Estimate: $150,000 - $250,000.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

Emerald and diamond pendent ear clips, Bulgari, 1964. Surmounts are detachable and may be worn with the natural pearl and diamond pendants. Estimate: $150,000 - $250,000

Emerald and diamond ring, Bulgari, 1964. Set with a step-cut emerald weighing 16.62 carats and framed by two rows of brilliant-cut diamonds. Estimate: $120,000 - $180,000

Natural pearl and diamond pendants, Bulgari, 1964, worn by Lollobrigida when she met Princess Margaret at The Taming of the Shrew premiere in London in 1967. Estimate: $600,000 - $1 million

Throughout her long and varied career as an actress, artist and humanitarian, one thing remained a constant in Gina Lollobrigida’s life: Her relationship with Italian luxury jewelry house, Bulgari.

19.03-ct. diamond ring, Bulgari, 1962; Estimate: $400,000 - $800,000

As previously reported, Lollobrigida is selling 23 pieces of jewelry from her Bulgari collection at Sotheby’s Geneva on May 14. Those who have followed the 85-year-old actress’ career, particularly during her height of international popularity in the 1950s and ‘60s, will recognize the items as they were all worn by her during special moments in her life.

Diamond necklace/bracelet combination, Bulgari, 1954, worn by the actress as a tiara during her 1961 Golden Globe for World Film Favorite – Female. Estimate: $300,000 - $500,000

The pictures that accompany this article are some of the highlights of the upcoming sale. Proceeds from the sale will benefit stem cell research, which she describes as a “very close cause to my heart.”

27.57-ct. emerald and diamond brooch, Bulgari, 1964; Estimate: $150,000 - $250,000.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

Emerald and diamond pendent ear clips, Bulgari, 1964. Surmounts are detachable and may be worn with the natural pearl and diamond pendants. Estimate: $150,000 - $250,000

Emerald and diamond ring, Bulgari, 1964. Set with a step-cut emerald weighing 16.62 carats and framed by two rows of brilliant-cut diamonds. Estimate: $120,000 - $180,000

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Film Star Gina Lollobrigida To Auction Her Bulgari Jewels For Charity

Gina Lollobrigida wearing the Bulgari diamond necklace and bracelet combination as a tiara & the pair of emerald and diamond earclips. The items are included in the auction at Sotheby's Geneva.

Actress and sex symbol, Gina Lollobrigida, will sell 23 jewels from her Bulgari collection at Sotheby’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels Sale on May 14. The auction will feature important Bulgari jewels from the 1950s and 1960s, worn by Lollobrigida at landmark moments in her career. Proceeds from the sale will benefit stem cell research.

Key pieces from the collection will travel to Hong Kong, London, New York and Rome before returning for exhibition in Geneva in advance of the sale.

“I have been lucky enough to be given many roles in life – as an actor, a mother, a photojournalist, an ambassador for FAO (Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations), and as an artist,” Lollobrigida said. “I began collecting jewels from Bulgari in the 1950s and 1960s, drawn by the wonderful craftsmanship and distinctive style of these pieces. They accompanied me on many journeys—both professional and personal—and are redolent of those times and the extraordinary people I met along the way.”

She continued, “I have decided the time is right to share them with other collectors. In so doing, I can also help a cause very close to my heart, that of stem cell research – treatment, which I believe should be freely available to every child. It is my wish that part of the proceeds from the sale will contribute to help fund an international hospital for stem cell research.”

David Bennett, Sotheby’s Switzerland and jewelry, Europe and Middle East chairman, added: “These exceptional jewels are evocative of both a woman, and an era. Not only do they reflect Gina Lollobrigida’s brilliance, but they are among the finest designs created by Bulgari in the “dolce vita” years of the 1950s and 1960s.”

Highlights from the sale include:

* Diamond necklace and bracelet combination, Bulgari, 1954, (also worn by Miss Lollobrigida as a tiara) a favorite of Lollobrigida on landmark occasions, including receiving her 1961 Golden Globe for World Film Favorite – Female (estimate, $300,000 - $500,000).

* Pair of natural pearl and diamond pendants, Bulgari, 1964, worn by Lollobrigida on numerous public occasions, including to meet Princess Margaret at The Taming of the Shrew premiere in London in 1967 (estimate, $600,000 - $1 million).

* Diamond ring set with a cushion-shaped diamond weighing 19.03 carats, Bulgari, 1962 (estimate, $400,000-800,000).

* Emerald and diamond earclips, Bulgari, 1964. Each earclip suspends a detachable pendant set to the center with a pear-shaped emerald (estimate $150,000 - $250,000).

* Emerald and diamond brooch set to the center with a step-cut emerald weighing 27.57 carats (estimate, $150,000 - $250,000).

* Emerald and diamond ring, Bulgari, 1964, set with a step-cut emerald weighing 16.62 carats, framed by two rows of brilliant-cut diamonds (estimate $120,000 - $180,000).

For her commitment to various humanitarian organizations, she was nominated first Ambassadress for the FAO in 1999 and has worked closely with UNICEF, UNESCO, Médecins Sans Frontières, Mother Theresa of Calcutta and children in Romania.

In 2007, she received the honor from the Republic of San Marino of becoming the only woman to be featured in a special edition of four postal stamps bearing her portrait – each depicting a different facet of her career – as actor, photographer, sculptor and humanitarian. In 2008, in Washington, the Italian-American Foundation NIAF awarded her the “Lifetime Achievement Award” in recognition of her artistic life.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

Gina Lollobrigida wearing the Bulgari diamond necklace and bracelet combination as a tiara & the pair of emerald and diamond earclips. The items are included in the auction at Sotheby's Geneva.

Actress and sex symbol, Gina Lollobrigida, will sell 23 jewels from her Bulgari collection at Sotheby’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels Sale on May 14. The auction will feature important Bulgari jewels from the 1950s and 1960s, worn by Lollobrigida at landmark moments in her career. Proceeds from the sale will benefit stem cell research.

Key pieces from the collection will travel to Hong Kong, London, New York and Rome before returning for exhibition in Geneva in advance of the sale.

“I have been lucky enough to be given many roles in life – as an actor, a mother, a photojournalist, an ambassador for FAO (Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations), and as an artist,” Lollobrigida said. “I began collecting jewels from Bulgari in the 1950s and 1960s, drawn by the wonderful craftsmanship and distinctive style of these pieces. They accompanied me on many journeys—both professional and personal—and are redolent of those times and the extraordinary people I met along the way.”

She continued, “I have decided the time is right to share them with other collectors. In so doing, I can also help a cause very close to my heart, that of stem cell research – treatment, which I believe should be freely available to every child. It is my wish that part of the proceeds from the sale will contribute to help fund an international hospital for stem cell research.”

David Bennett, Sotheby’s Switzerland and jewelry, Europe and Middle East chairman, added: “These exceptional jewels are evocative of both a woman, and an era. Not only do they reflect Gina Lollobrigida’s brilliance, but they are among the finest designs created by Bulgari in the “dolce vita” years of the 1950s and 1960s.”

Highlights from the sale include:

* Diamond necklace and bracelet combination, Bulgari, 1954, (also worn by Miss Lollobrigida as a tiara) a favorite of Lollobrigida on landmark occasions, including receiving her 1961 Golden Globe for World Film Favorite – Female (estimate, $300,000 - $500,000).

* Pair of natural pearl and diamond pendants, Bulgari, 1964, worn by Lollobrigida on numerous public occasions, including to meet Princess Margaret at The Taming of the Shrew premiere in London in 1967 (estimate, $600,000 - $1 million).

* Diamond ring set with a cushion-shaped diamond weighing 19.03 carats, Bulgari, 1962 (estimate, $400,000-800,000).

* Emerald and diamond earclips, Bulgari, 1964. Each earclip suspends a detachable pendant set to the center with a pear-shaped emerald (estimate $150,000 - $250,000).

* Emerald and diamond brooch set to the center with a step-cut emerald weighing 27.57 carats (estimate, $150,000 - $250,000).

* Emerald and diamond ring, Bulgari, 1964, set with a step-cut emerald weighing 16.62 carats, framed by two rows of brilliant-cut diamonds (estimate $120,000 - $180,000).

For her commitment to various humanitarian organizations, she was nominated first Ambassadress for the FAO in 1999 and has worked closely with UNICEF, UNESCO, Médecins Sans Frontières, Mother Theresa of Calcutta and children in Romania.

In 2007, she received the honor from the Republic of San Marino of becoming the only woman to be featured in a special edition of four postal stamps bearing her portrait – each depicting a different facet of her career – as actor, photographer, sculptor and humanitarian. In 2008, in Washington, the Italian-American Foundation NIAF awarded her the “Lifetime Achievement Award” in recognition of her artistic life.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

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A Sneak Peek At New Montblanc Jewelry

“Rapunzel, Rapunzel, let down your golden hair.” Braided yellow and white necklace from the Preuve de L'amour (Evidence of Love) collection, based on the famous German fairy tale. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

The Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, held Jan. 21 – 25, is first and foremost a luxury watch tradeshow. However, nearly a third of the 16 brands who exhibit at this intimate and luxurious event also produce jewelry.

New additions to the Pétales de Rose line of the “Princess Grace of Monaco” collection, made of white gold and diamonds. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

One of those brands is Montblanc, which provided a glimpse into what it will be releasing by French jewelry designer Susie Otero, Montblanc’s managing director of Jewelry. The pieces include new additions to the Collection Princesse Grace de Monaco and the 4810 Collection as well as new collections, including a men’s line. After all Montblanc, known for its luxury writing instruments, is traditionally a masculine brand.

Various renditions of gold and diamond boule rings in gold and diamonds from the Montblanc 4810 collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Materials include rose and white colored 18k gold, colorless diamonds, colored gems and sterling silver. The accompanying slideshow gives a glimpse on what Otero and Montblanc displayed during the event in Geneva. The new pieces are scheduled to be released as early as April.

New additions to the Pétales Entrelacés line of the “Princess Grace of Monaco” collection, made of rose gold and diamonds. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

More new items from the Preuve de L'amour collection, this time taking its direction from the Roman goddess, Venus. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Cufflinks made of stainless steel and ornamental stones from the Stripes collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

“Rapunzel, Rapunzel, let down your golden hair.” Braided yellow and white necklace from the Preuve de L'amour (Evidence of Love) collection, based on the famous German fairy tale. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

The Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, held Jan. 21 – 25, is first and foremost a luxury watch tradeshow. However, nearly a third of the 16 brands who exhibit at this intimate and luxurious event also produce jewelry.

New additions to the Pétales de Rose line of the “Princess Grace of Monaco” collection, made of white gold and diamonds. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

One of those brands is Montblanc, which provided a glimpse into what it will be releasing by French jewelry designer Susie Otero, Montblanc’s managing director of Jewelry. The pieces include new additions to the Collection Princesse Grace de Monaco and the 4810 Collection as well as new collections, including a men’s line. After all Montblanc, known for its luxury writing instruments, is traditionally a masculine brand.

Various renditions of gold and diamond boule rings in gold and diamonds from the Montblanc 4810 collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Materials include rose and white colored 18k gold, colorless diamonds, colored gems and sterling silver. The accompanying slideshow gives a glimpse on what Otero and Montblanc displayed during the event in Geneva. The new pieces are scheduled to be released as early as April.

New additions to the Pétales Entrelacés line of the “Princess Grace of Monaco” collection, made of rose gold and diamonds. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

More new items from the Preuve de L'amour collection, this time taking its direction from the Roman goddess, Venus. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Cufflinks made of stainless steel and ornamental stones from the Stripes collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

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Inside the World's Most Exclusive Watch Show

Montblanc, which added Swiss watches to its diverse luxury portfolio in 1997, used its showroom to display many of the contemporary art pieces that are on permanent display at its headquarters in Hamburg. All of the work includes an interpretation of the iconic Momntblanc star. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

GENEVA — The big news last week in this small country with a mighty economy and far-reaching global influence was the annual World Economic Forum held in Davos. Although overshadowed, another important annual event was being held: the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), arguably the most exclusive watch show in the world. 

By far the youngest and arguably the most innovative of watch brands today, Richard Mille displayed some of this innovation not only in the materials and concepts of its watches, but in its 3D presentation to the press during SIHH. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

The most recent installment of SIHH ended with the 16 watch brands, among the most prestigious in the world, introducing their latest timepieces, often the result of years of intensive research. It’s an invitation only event held each year at the Palexpo exhibition center. This year I was among the more than 13,000 invited guests (which included international retailers, journalists and brand representatives) to attend. 

Roger Dubuis introduced its Excalibur line of watches with a Bird of Prey as the centerpiece of its showroom. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Twelve of the watch brands exhibiting are owned by Richemont, the Geneva-based luxury holdings company, which is why the event (held Jan. 21 – 25) is often referred to as the Richemont show. 

Decked out for racing the IWC Schaffhausen showroom was one of the most popular during SIHH. the display was used to introduce its Ingenieur Chronograph Racer and Ingenieur Silberpfeil, the second watch dedicated to the famous Mercedes-Benz Silver Arrow racing car. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

There’s been talk about a slowdown in the luxury business, (particularly watches). The growth is slower than the astronomical rise in sales of the past few years, led by China. In fact, one could say that the growth in sales is now at a more normal pace. Richemont numbers point to this as the company reported that third quarter sales increased 5 percent, year-over-year, to 2.86 billion Swiss francs. Its “Specialist Watchmakers” group saw even more growth at 9 percent to 784 million Swiss francs. In addition, annual Swiss watch sales, which are expected soon, are expected to surpass 20 billion Swiss francs for the time ever. 

Butterflies were used tomillustrate the delicate intricacies of Van Cleef & Arpels' new watch and jewelry lines. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

There was some caution among the brand officials when talking sales, but overall, life remains good in the Swiss watch industry. 

The main gathering area at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

A giant replica of its new Grand Complication timepiece was the major design element of the A. Lange & Söhne showroom. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

A look inside Baume & Mercier's summer-in-the Hamptons themed showroom. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Web site.

Montblanc, which added Swiss watches to its diverse luxury portfolio in 1997, used its showroom to display many of the contemporary art pieces that are on permanent display at its headquarters in Hamburg. All of the work includes an interpretation of the iconic Momntblanc star. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

GENEVA — The big news last week in this small country with a mighty economy and far-reaching global influence was the annual World Economic Forum held in Davos. Although overshadowed, another important annual event was being held: the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), arguably the most exclusive watch show in the world. 

By far the youngest and arguably the most innovative of watch brands today, Richard Mille displayed some of this innovation not only in the materials and concepts of its watches, but in its 3D presentation to the press during SIHH. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

The most recent installment of SIHH ended with the 16 watch brands, among the most prestigious in the world, introducing their latest timepieces, often the result of years of intensive research. It’s an invitation only event held each year at the Palexpo exhibition center. This year I was among the more than 13,000 invited guests (which included international retailers, journalists and brand representatives) to attend. 

Roger Dubuis introduced its Excalibur line of watches with a Bird of Prey as the centerpiece of its showroom. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Twelve of the watch brands exhibiting are owned by Richemont, the Geneva-based luxury holdings company, which is why the event (held Jan. 21 – 25) is often referred to as the Richemont show. 

Decked out for racing the IWC Schaffhausen showroom was one of the most popular during SIHH. the display was used to introduce its Ingenieur Chronograph Racer and Ingenieur Silberpfeil, the second watch dedicated to the famous Mercedes-Benz Silver Arrow racing car. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

There’s been talk about a slowdown in the luxury business, (particularly watches). The growth is slower than the astronomical rise in sales of the past few years, led by China. In fact, one could say that the growth in sales is now at a more normal pace. Richemont numbers point to this as the company reported that third quarter sales increased 5 percent, year-over-year, to 2.86 billion Swiss francs. Its “Specialist Watchmakers” group saw even more growth at 9 percent to 784 million Swiss francs. In addition, annual Swiss watch sales, which are expected soon, are expected to surpass 20 billion Swiss francs for the time ever. 

Butterflies were used tomillustrate the delicate intricacies of Van Cleef & Arpels' new watch and jewelry lines. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

There was some caution among the brand officials when talking sales, but overall, life remains good in the Swiss watch industry. 

The main gathering area at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

A giant replica of its new Grand Complication timepiece was the major design element of the A. Lange & Söhne showroom. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

A look inside Baume & Mercier's summer-in-the Hamptons themed showroom. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Web site.

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Sotheby’s 2012 Watch and Clock Auction Sales Increased 43%

Patek Philippe tonneau minute repeating wristwatch engraved with the Graves family coat-of-arms.

Sotheby’s global watch and clock auctions in 2012 saw a year-over-year growth rate of 43 percent to total $85 million in sales, the highest-ever annual total for this category at the international auction house. 

The Hong Kong sales brought in $28.3 million, well above pre-sale total estimate of $20.6 million and a 20 percent, year-over-year increase. Europe sales in Geneva and London totaled $30.3 million, while New York achieved $26.48 million—an 83 percent increase from 2011.

“With the reconstruction of the department we have seen tremendous and unprecedented growth in the company’s watch and clock auction and private sale business, with record-breaking results in Hong Kong, New York and London, and clients participating from nearly 70 countries around the world,” said Tim Bourne, Sotheby’s Worldwide Head of Watches.

In the U.S., the New York June auctions of watches from the Collection of The Late Reginald H. Fullerton, Jr. and His Grandfather Henry Graves, Jr., offered in a dedicated sale, was 100 percent sold by lot and achieved $8.3 million, almost tripling its estimate, Sotheby’s said. The auction was led by The Henry Graves, Jr. Yellow Gold Minute Repeating Wristwatch by Patek Philippe (pictured) that sold for nearly $3 million, soaring above its $800,000 high estimate to achieve the highest-ever price for a wristwatch at Sotheby’s.

In December, Sotheby’s set a new auction record for any clock and the second-highest price for any timepiece at auction when the Duc d’Orléans Breguet Sympathique sold for $6.8 million. In addition, a Patek Philippe Ref. 2512/1 wristwatch sold for $962,000, more than nine times its pre-sale low estimate.

In Hong Kong, the April auction saw world records achieved for a Patek Philippe Dufour wristwatch ($617,949), as well as Patek Philippe Ref. 5079 ($510,256). In October, a Patek Philippe Ref. 5104 wristwatch sold for $633,333, while a Patek Philippe Ref. 5002P Sky Moon Tourbillon fetched $1.35 million.

Sotheby’s watch sales in Europe were highlighted by the landmark London auction of The George Daniels Horological Collection in November which achieved a total of $13.2 million with a remarkable 98.5 percent of the 137 lots belonging to the great British horologist sold. All of the nine watches made by George Daniels saw strong demand, selling above their high estimates. The top lot of the sale was George Daniels’ Space Traveller’s Watch, which fetched more than $2.1 million—establishing not only a new record for Daniels at auction, but also a record For an English watch and for an independent watchmaker at auction.

Sotheby’s Geneva spring and autumn auctions were led by rare models of vintage and modern wristwatches, including a most probably unique example of Patek Philippe Ref. 2524/1 retailed by Tiffany & Co, which doubled pre-sale expectations by selling for $571,328 in November. A further highlight was the sale in May of a 1825 carriage clock by the celebrated watch and clockmaker, Breguet, which was bought for $452,202 by the Breguet Museum, Paris.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Web site.

Patek Philippe tonneau minute repeating wristwatch engraved with the Graves family coat-of-arms.

Sotheby’s global watch and clock auctions in 2012 saw a year-over-year growth rate of 43 percent to total $85 million in sales, the highest-ever annual total for this category at the international auction house. 

The Hong Kong sales brought in $28.3 million, well above pre-sale total estimate of $20.6 million and a 20 percent, year-over-year increase. Europe sales in Geneva and London totaled $30.3 million, while New York achieved $26.48 million—an 83 percent increase from 2011.

“With the reconstruction of the department we have seen tremendous and unprecedented growth in the company’s watch and clock auction and private sale business, with record-breaking results in Hong Kong, New York and London, and clients participating from nearly 70 countries around the world,” said Tim Bourne, Sotheby’s Worldwide Head of Watches.

In the U.S., the New York June auctions of watches from the Collection of The Late Reginald H. Fullerton, Jr. and His Grandfather Henry Graves, Jr., offered in a dedicated sale, was 100 percent sold by lot and achieved $8.3 million, almost tripling its estimate, Sotheby’s said. The auction was led by The Henry Graves, Jr. Yellow Gold Minute Repeating Wristwatch by Patek Philippe (pictured) that sold for nearly $3 million, soaring above its $800,000 high estimate to achieve the highest-ever price for a wristwatch at Sotheby’s.

In December, Sotheby’s set a new auction record for any clock and the second-highest price for any timepiece at auction when the Duc d’Orléans Breguet Sympathique sold for $6.8 million. In addition, a Patek Philippe Ref. 2512/1 wristwatch sold for $962,000, more than nine times its pre-sale low estimate.

In Hong Kong, the April auction saw world records achieved for a Patek Philippe Dufour wristwatch ($617,949), as well as Patek Philippe Ref. 5079 ($510,256). In October, a Patek Philippe Ref. 5104 wristwatch sold for $633,333, while a Patek Philippe Ref. 5002P Sky Moon Tourbillon fetched $1.35 million.

Sotheby’s watch sales in Europe were highlighted by the landmark London auction of The George Daniels Horological Collection in November which achieved a total of $13.2 million with a remarkable 98.5 percent of the 137 lots belonging to the great British horologist sold. All of the nine watches made by George Daniels saw strong demand, selling above their high estimates. The top lot of the sale was George Daniels’ Space Traveller’s Watch, which fetched more than $2.1 million—establishing not only a new record for Daniels at auction, but also a record For an English watch and for an independent watchmaker at auction.

Sotheby’s Geneva spring and autumn auctions were led by rare models of vintage and modern wristwatches, including a most probably unique example of Patek Philippe Ref. 2524/1 retailed by Tiffany & Co, which doubled pre-sale expectations by selling for $571,328 in November. A further highlight was the sale in May of a 1825 carriage clock by the celebrated watch and clockmaker, Breguet, which was bought for $452,202 by the Breguet Museum, Paris.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Web site.

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Breguet Tourbillon Exhibit Opens in Geneva and will Tour the World

A modern-day Breguet tourbillon timepiece

Swiss luxury watch brand, Breguet, is celebrating the invention of the tourbillion through an exhibition titled, “Breguet, the innovator. Inventor of the Tourbillon,” at the Cité du Temps exhibition space in Geneva.

The exhibition will run till February 24 and then will tour cities in Europe, Asia, the Middle East and the United States.

On June 26, 1801 (or rather on 7 Messidor Year 9, since the Republic calendar was still in force at the time), the French Minister of the Interior awarded Abraham-Louis Breguet, the founder of Breguet, a patent for the invention of the tourbillon. This new type of regulator was developed in response to a longstanding problem: the detrimental effects of gravity on the regularity of a movement by generating variations in rate. Breguet understood that in order to reduce such errors, he would need to install the entire escapement within a mobile carriage that would perform a complete rotation, generally in one, four or six minutes. The regular repetition of the variations would allow them to compensate for each other.

This invention turned out to be difficult for Breguet to produce and implement. One reason is because the tourbillon must not weigh more than one gram, and yet be robust enough to avoid inducing rating errors rather than eliminating them. This inherent difficulty was compounded by the delicate work of finishing more than70 tiny parts that must fit and mesh together with absolute precision. Making a tourbillon was not within reach of all watchmakers, and only the finest proved capable of producing one after the 10-year patent had expired.

La Cité du Temps

La Cité du Temps, owned by the Swatch Group, is a public exhibition center focusing on the world of time. It hosts a variety of exhibitions and activities. It’s the only place in the world where you can find a permanent exhibition of Swatch watches.

The Swatch Group, the world’s largest manufacturer and distributor of finished watches, acquired Montres Breguet in 1999.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Web site.

A modern-day Breguet tourbillon timepiece

Swiss luxury watch brand, Breguet, is celebrating the invention of the tourbillion through an exhibition titled, “Breguet, the innovator. Inventor of the Tourbillon,” at the Cité du Temps exhibition space in Geneva.

The exhibition will run till February 24 and then will tour cities in Europe, Asia, the Middle East and the United States.

On June 26, 1801 (or rather on 7 Messidor Year 9, since the Republic calendar was still in force at the time), the French Minister of the Interior awarded Abraham-Louis Breguet, the founder of Breguet, a patent for the invention of the tourbillon. This new type of regulator was developed in response to a longstanding problem: the detrimental effects of gravity on the regularity of a movement by generating variations in rate. Breguet understood that in order to reduce such errors, he would need to install the entire escapement within a mobile carriage that would perform a complete rotation, generally in one, four or six minutes. The regular repetition of the variations would allow them to compensate for each other.

This invention turned out to be difficult for Breguet to produce and implement. One reason is because the tourbillon must not weigh more than one gram, and yet be robust enough to avoid inducing rating errors rather than eliminating them. This inherent difficulty was compounded by the delicate work of finishing more than70 tiny parts that must fit and mesh together with absolute precision. Making a tourbillon was not within reach of all watchmakers, and only the finest proved capable of producing one after the 10-year patent had expired.

La Cité du Temps

La Cité du Temps, owned by the Swatch Group, is a public exhibition center focusing on the world of time. It hosts a variety of exhibitions and activities. It’s the only place in the world where you can find a permanent exhibition of Swatch watches.

The Swatch Group, the world’s largest manufacturer and distributor of finished watches, acquired Montres Breguet in 1999.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Web site.

reade more... Résuméabuiyad