Famous Bulgari Jewelry on Display in San Francisco

“Tubogas” choker, 1974; two-color gold with Greek silver coins. Bulgari Heritage Collection, inv. 404 N607. © Antonio Barrella Studio Orizzonte.

By Maria Ling,
Assistant Editor

One more reason to spend the holidays in San Francisco is the ongoing exhibition of Bulgari jewelry at the de Young Museum. 

“The Art of Bulgari: La Dolce Vita & Beyond 1950 - 1990,” is an exhibition of approximately 150 pieces created by the renowned Italian jeweler over four decades. It highlights jewelry that defined a pivotal period in Italian design, and will include pieces from the personal collections of Elizabeth Taylor, Ellen Barkin and other famous names. The exhibition will run through February 17, 2014.

Sautoir, 1969, platinum with sapphires and diamonds. Formerly in the collection of Elizabeth Taylor. Bulgari Heritage Collection, inv. 6675 N2170 © Antonio Barrella Studio Orizzonte.

Bulgari notably began to create its own trademark in jewelry in the 1960s by embracing boldly-colored combinations of gemstones, use of heavy gold, and forms derived from Greco-Roman classicism, the Italian Renaissance, and the 19th-century Roman school of goldsmiths. The company helped to develop a look that would come to be known as the “Italian school” of jewelry design. Pieces in the exhibition display the jeweler’s eclectic creativity and invention during this period.

Bracelets, 1955 and 1959; platinum with diamonds. Formerly in the collection of Ellen Barkin. Bulgari Heritage Collection, inv. 4924 B527, 4925 B528 © Antonio Barrella Studio Orizzonte.

Works in the exhibition also include those from the 1970s and 80s, a particularly innovative period for the jeweler and one influenced by Pop Art and other contemporary trends. 

“Parentesi” parure, ca. 1982; Gold with diamonds. Bulgari Heritage Collection, inv. 5063 E173, 5068 N1500, 5072 B508 © Antonio Barrella Studio Orizzonte.

“The hard-edged designs of the 1970s included a whole range based on the Stars-and-Stripes motif, while in the 1980s the Parentesi collection had a smoother, modular, almost architectural presence; both show how the jeweler could lead in new directions with a strong sense of design,” said Martin Chapman, curator in charge of European Decorative Arts and Sculpture at the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco.

“Bib” necklace, 1965; Gold with emeralds, amethysts, turquoise, and diamonds. Formerly in the collection of Lyn Revson. Bulgari Heritage Collection, inv. 401 N565. © Antonio Barrella Studio Orizzonte

Bulgari’s successful cultivation of prominent patrons and movie stars like Sophia Loren, Ingrid Bergman, and perhaps most notably, Elizabeth Taylor, has long been a key aspect of the jeweler’s reputation. 

To help explore the cultural context in which these objects were made, the exhibition will include sketches, photographs, and other archival materials that help to reveal an intersection of celebrity, design and fine craftsmanship.

 Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

“Tubogas” choker, 1974; two-color gold with Greek silver coins. Bulgari Heritage Collection, inv. 404 N607. © Antonio Barrella Studio Orizzonte.

By Maria Ling,
Assistant Editor

One more reason to spend the holidays in San Francisco is the ongoing exhibition of Bulgari jewelry at the de Young Museum. 

“The Art of Bulgari: La Dolce Vita & Beyond 1950 - 1990,” is an exhibition of approximately 150 pieces created by the renowned Italian jeweler over four decades. It highlights jewelry that defined a pivotal period in Italian design, and will include pieces from the personal collections of Elizabeth Taylor, Ellen Barkin and other famous names. The exhibition will run through February 17, 2014.

Sautoir, 1969, platinum with sapphires and diamonds. Formerly in the collection of Elizabeth Taylor. Bulgari Heritage Collection, inv. 6675 N2170 © Antonio Barrella Studio Orizzonte.

Bulgari notably began to create its own trademark in jewelry in the 1960s by embracing boldly-colored combinations of gemstones, use of heavy gold, and forms derived from Greco-Roman classicism, the Italian Renaissance, and the 19th-century Roman school of goldsmiths. The company helped to develop a look that would come to be known as the “Italian school” of jewelry design. Pieces in the exhibition display the jeweler’s eclectic creativity and invention during this period.

Bracelets, 1955 and 1959; platinum with diamonds. Formerly in the collection of Ellen Barkin. Bulgari Heritage Collection, inv. 4924 B527, 4925 B528 © Antonio Barrella Studio Orizzonte.

Works in the exhibition also include those from the 1970s and 80s, a particularly innovative period for the jeweler and one influenced by Pop Art and other contemporary trends. 

“Parentesi” parure, ca. 1982; Gold with diamonds. Bulgari Heritage Collection, inv. 5063 E173, 5068 N1500, 5072 B508 © Antonio Barrella Studio Orizzonte.

“The hard-edged designs of the 1970s included a whole range based on the Stars-and-Stripes motif, while in the 1980s the Parentesi collection had a smoother, modular, almost architectural presence; both show how the jeweler could lead in new directions with a strong sense of design,” said Martin Chapman, curator in charge of European Decorative Arts and Sculpture at the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco.

“Bib” necklace, 1965; Gold with emeralds, amethysts, turquoise, and diamonds. Formerly in the collection of Lyn Revson. Bulgari Heritage Collection, inv. 401 N565. © Antonio Barrella Studio Orizzonte

Bulgari’s successful cultivation of prominent patrons and movie stars like Sophia Loren, Ingrid Bergman, and perhaps most notably, Elizabeth Taylor, has long been a key aspect of the jeweler’s reputation. 

To help explore the cultural context in which these objects were made, the exhibition will include sketches, photographs, and other archival materials that help to reveal an intersection of celebrity, design and fine craftsmanship.

 Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

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Met Museum to Sell Exclusive Jewelry Designed by JAR

JAR Lilac Brooches, 2001; diamonds, lilac sapphires, garnets, aluminum, silver and gold. From a private collection. Photograph by Jozsef Tari, courtesy of JAR, Paris.

To coincide with highly anticipated Jewels by JAR exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the museum has announced that the famous jewelry artist has created a small collection of jewelry for the exhibition that will be available for purchase. 

The items include eight pairs of earrings and two watches ranging in price from $2,000 to $7,500. These pieces will be available exclusively at the Museum through the close of the exhibition. 

The museum, probably at the request of the renowned jewelry designer, will not have photographs available of the items for sale until November 18. The picture above will be one of the pieces in the exhibition and not for sale at the Special Exhibition and Mezzanine Gallery Shops. 

The exhibition Jewels by JAR will run from November 20, 2013, through March 9, 2014. The exhibition features more than 400 works by Joel A. Rosenthal, who works in Paris under the name JAR. Jewels by JAR is the first JAR retrospective in the United States and the first at the Metropolitan Museum devoted to a contemporary artist of gems.

Born in New York and educated at Harvard, Rosenthal moved to Paris soon after graduation and began to experiment with jewelry making. He opened JAR in 1978 on the Place Vendôme, in the same space he occupies today. 

“JAR jewels quickly became known for their unique design, the exquisite quality of the gemstones, and their remarkable craftsmanship—but above all for their fearless beauty,” the museum said in a statement. “Rosenthal’s extraordinary, one-of-a-kind creations place him among the ranks of history’s greatest jewelers.” 

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

JAR Lilac Brooches, 2001; diamonds, lilac sapphires, garnets, aluminum, silver and gold. From a private collection. Photograph by Jozsef Tari, courtesy of JAR, Paris.

To coincide with highly anticipated Jewels by JAR exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the museum has announced that the famous jewelry artist has created a small collection of jewelry for the exhibition that will be available for purchase. 

The items include eight pairs of earrings and two watches ranging in price from $2,000 to $7,500. These pieces will be available exclusively at the Museum through the close of the exhibition. 

The museum, probably at the request of the renowned jewelry designer, will not have photographs available of the items for sale until November 18. The picture above will be one of the pieces in the exhibition and not for sale at the Special Exhibition and Mezzanine Gallery Shops. 

The exhibition Jewels by JAR will run from November 20, 2013, through March 9, 2014. The exhibition features more than 400 works by Joel A. Rosenthal, who works in Paris under the name JAR. Jewels by JAR is the first JAR retrospective in the United States and the first at the Metropolitan Museum devoted to a contemporary artist of gems.

Born in New York and educated at Harvard, Rosenthal moved to Paris soon after graduation and began to experiment with jewelry making. He opened JAR in 1978 on the Place Vendôme, in the same space he occupies today. 

“JAR jewels quickly became known for their unique design, the exquisite quality of the gemstones, and their remarkable craftsmanship—but above all for their fearless beauty,” the museum said in a statement. “Rosenthal’s extraordinary, one-of-a-kind creations place him among the ranks of history’s greatest jewelers.” 

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

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Luxury Jeweler Mauboussin Brings ‘French Chic’ to US

Thierry Chaunu, Mauboussin North America CEO, is charged with reintroducing the luxury jewelry brand to a new audience in the US. Here, he demonstrates the technique of tying a ribbon on the hatbox-shaped package that customers take home. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Thierry Chaunu appears as if he is at home sitting in an oversized red chair with a white polka-dot pattern. The French native says he feels as if he has returned to his roots at the French luxury jewelry brand, Mauboussin.

In August, Chaunu was hired as the North American CEO of the company with its flagship store at Place Vendôme and a four-story US flagship on Madison Avenue where we spoke earlier this week.

The entrance of the Mauboussin Madison Avenue boutique. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

He talks excitedly about the introducing the brand to fashion-conscious women and educating consumers in the US, Canada and the Caribbean on the history of the company.

“Here in America I think people will develop a true appreciation of the history of the brand,” Chaunu said.

Mauboussin was founded in 1827 in Paris and in the 1940s moved its store to Place Vendôme. In the early to mid 20th Century, the company catered to European royalty and also Hollywood stars such as Marlene Dietrich, Audrey Hepburn and Greta Garbo. During this time the company had a boutique in Madison Avenue in New York about 10 blocks away from its current location. Its Art Deco jewelry from the period continues to be a staple look in its current designs.

Mauboussin Festival Necklace featuring the Mauboussin star logo. This diamond necklace is available in 18k white gold or platinum. 

In addition, its logo of a star that appears to be in flight is a constant theme in its boutique and jewelry designs. The branding extends to the packaging the customers take home, which are in the shape of hatboxes. This harkens back to its 20th Century heydays, however, the design is thoroughly modern with the star logo appearing like a flock of black birds pointing upwards, gradually turning the top of the white box to black.

The brand is well known in France where there are about 30 boutiques and hundreds of points of sale. It also has a strong presence in Singapore, Japan, Morocco and Dubai.

The bridal suite is bathed in layers of white with crinoline tufting on the ceiling, and padded and feathered wall finishes. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

In 2008, the company, which hasn’t had a presence in the US since the Second World War, opened a grand four-story boutique on Madison Avenue near 63rd Street. Elaborate modern paintings, sculptures and furnishings (such as the polka dot chairs) are scattered throughout the building. The third floor bridal suite is bathed in layers of white with crinoline tufting on the ceiling, padded white wall finishes and thick white carpeting. The fourth floor used for entertaining has a full kitchen and bar. The first floor main retail space has the words amour toujours (love always), in graffiti style red paint on a white, brick wall above caricatures of what looks like snowmen and snowwomen in top hats and fancy dresses from the early 20th Century. The jewelry and watches are housed inside what the brand describes as “treasure boxes,”—sleek and modern dark wood boxes that stand on top of long, thin legs.

Sleek, modern "treasure boxes," which in this instance contains timepieces, are one of the design details of the Mauboussin boutique. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

While a great deal of money went into the location of the store on one of the priciest retail districts in the world and its design, it appears little actually went into marketing and advertising.

Chaunu is working on a number of ways to bring the brand a larger audience. The French native and longtime US citizen is a veteran of the luxury jewelry and watch industry and has worked for some of the world’s most prestigious brands, including Cartier, Chopard and Leviev. In fact, Chaunu says he considers Mauboussin a bit of a homecoming as he began his career with Cartier, another jewelry tenant at Place Vendôme.

The 18k Alessandra Ring with a a 1-carat round brillant diamond, GVS quality, and flanked by diamond baguettes.

He is focusing on finding the right product mix and retail environments to introduce the brand throughout North America. The details of how this will be done haven’t been determined and he is open to just about anything. However, he will focus on self-purchasing women.

“Our goal is to penetrate the US and go after the fashion conscious fine jewelry buyer who is into style and design and reach out to them with this Parisian chic appeal,” he says.

He has been traveling throughout North America trying to find retail partners. He is talking with independent jewelry retailers and department stores. It could take the form of having pieces as part of store’s larger display having a branded space inside a store (“shop in shops”). He also said branded boutiques in other cities may be in the mix.

18K white gold Solitaire Star Chance of Love Ring with diamond pave. It is available with a diamond from 0.10-carat to 1-carat.

Over the years the brand increased and diversified its product lines to match the changing consumer. No longer just for royalty and Hollywood, the brand produces pieces that are as fashionable as they are refined in price points ranging from less than $1,000 to well into the six figures.

In addition to its logo appearing on many designs, the company focuses on platinum and white gold, said Laurence Bouard, the director of the Madison Avenue store. Other than that, gemstones, diamonds and other materials are used freely in its designs. Within this framework, there’s a great deal of versatility with each design in terms of the sizes and types of gemstones that can be used.

In France, by far its largest market, Chaunu said the company has been successful with pop up stores and other retail programs to attract a larger, younger audience.

Chaunu explains that while he has hit the ground running since his hiring two months ago, he is being patient, looking for the right mix of products with the right retailers.

“I don’t know how this will play out but it’s a logical development for a brand,” he says. “I’m taking a cautious, step-by-step approach and develop a presence where it makes sense…. You don’t want to rush, rush, rush. You need all the ingredients to come together.”

Like most brands, the company also has other product lines, such as eyewear and very popular fragrances for women and men. However, aggressive promotion of these products will be done down the line. For now, Chaunu says the focus is on jewelry.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

Thierry Chaunu, Mauboussin North America CEO, is charged with reintroducing the luxury jewelry brand to a new audience in the US. Here, he demonstrates the technique of tying a ribbon on the hatbox-shaped package that customers take home. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Thierry Chaunu appears as if he is at home sitting in an oversized red chair with a white polka-dot pattern. The French native says he feels as if he has returned to his roots at the French luxury jewelry brand, Mauboussin.

In August, Chaunu was hired as the North American CEO of the company with its flagship store at Place Vendôme and a four-story US flagship on Madison Avenue where we spoke earlier this week.

The entrance of the Mauboussin Madison Avenue boutique. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

He talks excitedly about the introducing the brand to fashion-conscious women and educating consumers in the US, Canada and the Caribbean on the history of the company.

“Here in America I think people will develop a true appreciation of the history of the brand,” Chaunu said.

Mauboussin was founded in 1827 in Paris and in the 1940s moved its store to Place Vendôme. In the early to mid 20th Century, the company catered to European royalty and also Hollywood stars such as Marlene Dietrich, Audrey Hepburn and Greta Garbo. During this time the company had a boutique in Madison Avenue in New York about 10 blocks away from its current location. Its Art Deco jewelry from the period continues to be a staple look in its current designs.

Mauboussin Festival Necklace featuring the Mauboussin star logo. This diamond necklace is available in 18k white gold or platinum. 

In addition, its logo of a star that appears to be in flight is a constant theme in its boutique and jewelry designs. The branding extends to the packaging the customers take home, which are in the shape of hatboxes. This harkens back to its 20th Century heydays, however, the design is thoroughly modern with the star logo appearing like a flock of black birds pointing upwards, gradually turning the top of the white box to black.

The brand is well known in France where there are about 30 boutiques and hundreds of points of sale. It also has a strong presence in Singapore, Japan, Morocco and Dubai.

The bridal suite is bathed in layers of white with crinoline tufting on the ceiling, and padded and feathered wall finishes. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

In 2008, the company, which hasn’t had a presence in the US since the Second World War, opened a grand four-story boutique on Madison Avenue near 63rd Street. Elaborate modern paintings, sculptures and furnishings (such as the polka dot chairs) are scattered throughout the building. The third floor bridal suite is bathed in layers of white with crinoline tufting on the ceiling, padded white wall finishes and thick white carpeting. The fourth floor used for entertaining has a full kitchen and bar. The first floor main retail space has the words amour toujours (love always), in graffiti style red paint on a white, brick wall above caricatures of what looks like snowmen and snowwomen in top hats and fancy dresses from the early 20th Century. The jewelry and watches are housed inside what the brand describes as “treasure boxes,”—sleek and modern dark wood boxes that stand on top of long, thin legs.

Sleek, modern "treasure boxes," which in this instance contains timepieces, are one of the design details of the Mauboussin boutique. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

While a great deal of money went into the location of the store on one of the priciest retail districts in the world and its design, it appears little actually went into marketing and advertising.

Chaunu is working on a number of ways to bring the brand a larger audience. The French native and longtime US citizen is a veteran of the luxury jewelry and watch industry and has worked for some of the world’s most prestigious brands, including Cartier, Chopard and Leviev. In fact, Chaunu says he considers Mauboussin a bit of a homecoming as he began his career with Cartier, another jewelry tenant at Place Vendôme.

The 18k Alessandra Ring with a a 1-carat round brillant diamond, GVS quality, and flanked by diamond baguettes.

He is focusing on finding the right product mix and retail environments to introduce the brand throughout North America. The details of how this will be done haven’t been determined and he is open to just about anything. However, he will focus on self-purchasing women.

“Our goal is to penetrate the US and go after the fashion conscious fine jewelry buyer who is into style and design and reach out to them with this Parisian chic appeal,” he says.

He has been traveling throughout North America trying to find retail partners. He is talking with independent jewelry retailers and department stores. It could take the form of having pieces as part of store’s larger display having a branded space inside a store (“shop in shops”). He also said branded boutiques in other cities may be in the mix.

18K white gold Solitaire Star Chance of Love Ring with diamond pave. It is available with a diamond from 0.10-carat to 1-carat.

Over the years the brand increased and diversified its product lines to match the changing consumer. No longer just for royalty and Hollywood, the brand produces pieces that are as fashionable as they are refined in price points ranging from less than $1,000 to well into the six figures.

In addition to its logo appearing on many designs, the company focuses on platinum and white gold, said Laurence Bouard, the director of the Madison Avenue store. Other than that, gemstones, diamonds and other materials are used freely in its designs. Within this framework, there’s a great deal of versatility with each design in terms of the sizes and types of gemstones that can be used.

In France, by far its largest market, Chaunu said the company has been successful with pop up stores and other retail programs to attract a larger, younger audience.

Chaunu explains that while he has hit the ground running since his hiring two months ago, he is being patient, looking for the right mix of products with the right retailers.

“I don’t know how this will play out but it’s a logical development for a brand,” he says. “I’m taking a cautious, step-by-step approach and develop a presence where it makes sense…. You don’t want to rush, rush, rush. You need all the ingredients to come together.”

Like most brands, the company also has other product lines, such as eyewear and very popular fragrances for women and men. However, aggressive promotion of these products will be done down the line. For now, Chaunu says the focus is on jewelry.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

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Winning Jewelry Designs From 2014 AGTA Spectrum Awards

Best of Show: 'Tropical Storm' Ring by James Currens of J.W. Currens. Platinum ring is centered with a 22.10-carat emerald surrounded by swirling patterns of diamonds (11.47 ctw.). This piece also took first place in the Classical category.

Colored gemstone jewelry took center stage Monday as the American Gem Trade Association announced the winners of its annual Spectrum Awards competition and allowed the press to view nearly all of the entries at an undisclosed location in New York. 

Best Use of Color: Erica Courtney's 18k yellow gold earrings feature boulder opals (22.84 ctw.) and fire opals (2.62 ctw.) accented with orange sapphires (1.75 ctw.) and Paraiba tourmalines (.70 ctw.). 

Lined up on tabletops in an unadorned room was a variety of pieces representing the wealth of diversity and creativity of the worldwide jewelry industry. The competition and showcase, in its 30th year, is organized by the American Gem Trade Association, a North American trade organization representing the colored gem and cultured pearl industries. This competition is by far the largest and most prestigious for those who create with natural colored gemstones and cultured pearls.

Best Use of Platinum and Color: "Coleman's Smokey Blues" earrings by Deirdre Featherstone of Featherstone Design feature cushion-cut blue spinels (3.86 ctw.) and lavender spinels (4.02 ctw.) accented with multi-colored sapphires, garnets, tourmalines and diamonds.

The AGTA Spectrum Awards serves as the closest thing in the jewelry industry to gauge fashion trends. Unlike the other industries, the production cycle involving jewelry is much slower. Gather the materials, building the pieces and distributing them takes time. Plus, fine jewelry of the quality on display at the Spectrum Awards is designed to be a long-term purchase—even an investment. Finally, these pieces are largely created by individuals and small firms. They are more inclined to reflect a personal style rather than international fashion trends. These pieces, particularly the winners, will help set the standard for the coming year. 

1st Place Fashion Forward: Sterling and 18K yellow gold 'Robot Heart' necklace BY Katey Brunini OF K. Brunini Jewels. This extremely large piece features a 1363.96-carat heart-shaped opal accented with Diamonds (1.53 ctw.). The heart lights up in several patterns.

As far as trends do go there were a few. The mixing of colors seemed more dramatic this year. The best example of this is Erica Courtney’s 18k yellow gold earrings (second picture) with its mix of boulder opals, fire opals, orange sapphires and Paraiba tourmalines. 

Best Use of Pearls: 18K white gold drop earrings by Anil Maloo, Baggins, Inc., that feature 32 Japanese Akoya cultured pearls accented with round brilliant Diamonds (4.43 ctw.). It was also the winner of the Bridal Wear category.

Pearl jewelry showed more variety. There were necklaces made with carved pearls and multicolored pearls. For bridal, white is still the way to go but Anil Maloo, who took first place in the “Bridal Wear” category, managed to mix shades with drop earrings in a cage design using white gold and white diamonds with white Japanese Akoya cultured pearls peeking out through the openings of the cage (pictured above).

Business/Day Wear - 1st Place: 22K and 18K yellow gold "Blue Waters" necklace with opal doublets and diamonds (1.86 ctw.) by Jonathan Lee Rutledge of Jonathan Lee Rutledge, Inc. 

The one trend that involves color has been going on for so long now that it’s difficult to still describe it as a trend. Obviously color was always part of the mix in jewelry. However, during the global recession, jewelry designers and manufacturers were looking for ways to create less expensive jewelry with high design. One way was to creatively add color through a mix of less expensive gemstones to offset the spike in gold prices and more expensive diamonds. 

Evening Wear - 1st Place: Platinum and white gold "Blue Fin" ring by Leon Mege of Leon Mege, Inc. This ring features a 12.75 ct. Paraiba Tourmaline cabochon accented with diamonds.

This has created an explosion of creativity in all price points that continues today and now serves as a dominate part of fine jewelry design.

Men's Wear - 1st Place: 14K white and 18K yellow gold men's lapel pin by Mark Schneider of Mark Schneider Design. This lapel pin features carved black Jade accented with white Diamonds (.28 ctw), Rubies (.04 ctw.), and cognac and yellow diamonds (.99 ctw.).

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

Best of Show: 'Tropical Storm' Ring by James Currens of J.W. Currens. Platinum ring is centered with a 22.10-carat emerald surrounded by swirling patterns of diamonds (11.47 ctw.). This piece also took first place in the Classical category.

Colored gemstone jewelry took center stage Monday as the American Gem Trade Association announced the winners of its annual Spectrum Awards competition and allowed the press to view nearly all of the entries at an undisclosed location in New York. 

Best Use of Color: Erica Courtney's 18k yellow gold earrings feature boulder opals (22.84 ctw.) and fire opals (2.62 ctw.) accented with orange sapphires (1.75 ctw.) and Paraiba tourmalines (.70 ctw.). 

Lined up on tabletops in an unadorned room was a variety of pieces representing the wealth of diversity and creativity of the worldwide jewelry industry. The competition and showcase, in its 30th year, is organized by the American Gem Trade Association, a North American trade organization representing the colored gem and cultured pearl industries. This competition is by far the largest and most prestigious for those who create with natural colored gemstones and cultured pearls.

Best Use of Platinum and Color: "Coleman's Smokey Blues" earrings by Deirdre Featherstone of Featherstone Design feature cushion-cut blue spinels (3.86 ctw.) and lavender spinels (4.02 ctw.) accented with multi-colored sapphires, garnets, tourmalines and diamonds.

The AGTA Spectrum Awards serves as the closest thing in the jewelry industry to gauge fashion trends. Unlike the other industries, the production cycle involving jewelry is much slower. Gather the materials, building the pieces and distributing them takes time. Plus, fine jewelry of the quality on display at the Spectrum Awards is designed to be a long-term purchase—even an investment. Finally, these pieces are largely created by individuals and small firms. They are more inclined to reflect a personal style rather than international fashion trends. These pieces, particularly the winners, will help set the standard for the coming year. 

1st Place Fashion Forward: Sterling and 18K yellow gold 'Robot Heart' necklace BY Katey Brunini OF K. Brunini Jewels. This extremely large piece features a 1363.96-carat heart-shaped opal accented with Diamonds (1.53 ctw.). The heart lights up in several patterns.

As far as trends do go there were a few. The mixing of colors seemed more dramatic this year. The best example of this is Erica Courtney’s 18k yellow gold earrings (second picture) with its mix of boulder opals, fire opals, orange sapphires and Paraiba tourmalines. 

Best Use of Pearls: 18K white gold drop earrings by Anil Maloo, Baggins, Inc., that feature 32 Japanese Akoya cultured pearls accented with round brilliant Diamonds (4.43 ctw.). It was also the winner of the Bridal Wear category.

Pearl jewelry showed more variety. There were necklaces made with carved pearls and multicolored pearls. For bridal, white is still the way to go but Anil Maloo, who took first place in the “Bridal Wear” category, managed to mix shades with drop earrings in a cage design using white gold and white diamonds with white Japanese Akoya cultured pearls peeking out through the openings of the cage (pictured above).

Business/Day Wear - 1st Place: 22K and 18K yellow gold "Blue Waters" necklace with opal doublets and diamonds (1.86 ctw.) by Jonathan Lee Rutledge of Jonathan Lee Rutledge, Inc. 

The one trend that involves color has been going on for so long now that it’s difficult to still describe it as a trend. Obviously color was always part of the mix in jewelry. However, during the global recession, jewelry designers and manufacturers were looking for ways to create less expensive jewelry with high design. One way was to creatively add color through a mix of less expensive gemstones to offset the spike in gold prices and more expensive diamonds. 

Evening Wear - 1st Place: Platinum and white gold "Blue Fin" ring by Leon Mege of Leon Mege, Inc. This ring features a 12.75 ct. Paraiba Tourmaline cabochon accented with diamonds.

This has created an explosion of creativity in all price points that continues today and now serves as a dominate part of fine jewelry design.

Men's Wear - 1st Place: 14K white and 18K yellow gold men's lapel pin by Mark Schneider of Mark Schneider Design. This lapel pin features carved black Jade accented with white Diamonds (.28 ctw), Rubies (.04 ctw.), and cognac and yellow diamonds (.99 ctw.).

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

reade more... Résuméabuiyad

Mouawad Designs $10M Victoria’s Secret Royal Fantasy Bra

Candice Swanepoel models the $10 million bra.

The $10 million Victoria’s Secret Royal Fantasy Bra and Belt designed by Mouawad will be worn by Victoria’s Secret Angel Candice Swanepoel. The bejeweled bra will be unveiled in the 2013 Victoria’s Secret Dreams & Fantasies Catalogue as well as at The Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show airing December 10 on the CBS television network.

The Royal Fantasy Bra and Belt features more than 4,200 precious gems from around the world including rubies, diamonds, and yellow and blue sapphires. Handset in 18k gold, the bra is completed with a 52-carat, pear-shaped center ruby.

The luxury jeweler said it was inspired by the “colorful, wild and trend-setting” 1960s “when models like Twiggy, Jean Shrimpton and Patty Boyd ruled the runways and dominated the covers of Vogue, Vanity Fair and Harper's Bazaar.” The jewelry on the Royal Fantasy Bra and Belt also used the British Royal Crown Jewels as an inspiration with diamonds, rubies and sapphires in a patriot display of red, white and blue. 

This will be the first time Swanepoel will wear the bra. Since 2001 when Supermodel Heidi Klum wore the first Victoria’s Secret Fantasy Bra, it has been a tradition for the lingerie and beauty products retailer. Other supermodels that have worn fantasy bras over the years include Heidi Klum, Tyra Banks, Selita Ebanks, and Gisele Bündchen.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

Candice Swanepoel models the $10 million bra.

The $10 million Victoria’s Secret Royal Fantasy Bra and Belt designed by Mouawad will be worn by Victoria’s Secret Angel Candice Swanepoel. The bejeweled bra will be unveiled in the 2013 Victoria’s Secret Dreams & Fantasies Catalogue as well as at The Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show airing December 10 on the CBS television network.

The Royal Fantasy Bra and Belt features more than 4,200 precious gems from around the world including rubies, diamonds, and yellow and blue sapphires. Handset in 18k gold, the bra is completed with a 52-carat, pear-shaped center ruby.

The luxury jeweler said it was inspired by the “colorful, wild and trend-setting” 1960s “when models like Twiggy, Jean Shrimpton and Patty Boyd ruled the runways and dominated the covers of Vogue, Vanity Fair and Harper's Bazaar.” The jewelry on the Royal Fantasy Bra and Belt also used the British Royal Crown Jewels as an inspiration with diamonds, rubies and sapphires in a patriot display of red, white and blue. 

This will be the first time Swanepoel will wear the bra. Since 2001 when Supermodel Heidi Klum wore the first Victoria’s Secret Fantasy Bra, it has been a tradition for the lingerie and beauty products retailer. Other supermodels that have worn fantasy bras over the years include Heidi Klum, Tyra Banks, Selita Ebanks, and Gisele Bündchen.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

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‘If you have a piece of nice jewelry you should really enjoy it and wear it every day,’ Coffee with JNN: Dennis Chan of Qeelin

Dennis Chan (left) describing Qeelin's new "King & Queen" collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

As I walked into the sun-filled grand ballroom of Club Lusitano, a Portuguese heritage club in Hong Kong’s Central district, the Qeelin press conference was already underway. What I didn’t expect was a three course formal western style lunch that included New Zealand sole and a cheesecake with mixed berries.

On a stage speaking enthusiastically in Chinese was Dennis Chan, the creative director and co-founder of the luxury jewelry brand. Towering over him is a model dressed in a long formal black dress wearing pieces of the just released jewelry from Qeelin’s “King & Queen” collection. Chan is dressed in a crisp black suit and white shirt with the collar unbuttoned. On his neck is a dragon pendant from the new collection. His shoes are the showstopper, a tiger-themed (I believe) print with gold-colored studs in the back. When I ask him about the shoes he just laughs and says they’re Italian and they matched his clothes.

Dennis Chan's Italian shoes. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Afterward, Chan went from table to table with another tall model dressed in a formal full-length red dress discussing the individual pieces in rapid-fire Chinese.

Dennis Chan demonstrating Phoenix necklace at Qeelin press conference. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

When compared to its peers in the international luxury jewelry world, Qeelin is different in several ways. It’s a relatively small and young company and it’s headquartered in Asia, not Europe.

The Hong Kong-based company combines traditional Chinese themes with French craftsmanship, a design-first philosophy, the use of precious materials and a bit of whimsy. Not yet 10 years old, the brand has 14 boutiques in China, Hong Kong and Europe; and other points-of-sale in Singapore, Tokyo and Europe.

18k rose gold, diamond pavé and ruby bracelet, part of Qeelin's King & Queen collection. The ring has a dragon head (shown) and phoenix head, which represent King and Queen, respectively.

While the company has European influences and distribution, it is focused on the China and Asian markets. This is precisely why French luxury conglomerate Kering (formerly PPR) purchased a majority stake in the relatively small and little-known brand. The December, 2012, acquisition surprised many observers.

“Qeelin is a small brand, but with strong growth potential. We focus much more on the brand’s ability to grow rather than on its current size,” said Alexis Babeau, Kering managing director. “As examples, Balenciaga or Bottega Veneta were very small brands too when we bought them back in 2001. Look at them now…. Qeelin is well positioned to tap the growth potential of the Asian market.”

Qeelin Dragon and Phoenix ring (with the phoenix head shown) made of 18k yellow gold, diamond pavé and rubies.

I had finished my work at the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair so being in the city provided me the opportunity to attend the press conference. Afterward, Chan and I sat for coffee and a short discussion about Qeelin and its future.

Chan said Hong Kong and China are Qeelin’s biggest markets; followed by Europe and Ukraine. “We have a lot of followers,” he said. “They collect everything we have.”

With the Kering acquisition, the boutique brand will have the ability to grow at a rapid pace. Chan said the company will open six to seven stores in China soon. However, he stresses that expansion won’t be rushed.

“We are expanding quite steadily, (but) we try not to expand and suddenly to be very big because it takes time for a luxury brand to grow,” the Hong Kong resident said. “But I think we have our own position in the industry … we rely a lot on design and craftsmanship and at the same time a lot of our jewelry could really touch people’s hearts.”

Chan said that the differences between Qeelin and its European brand counterparts are its advantages.

“If you look at Qeelin, you will find that it is very different,” he said. “We are not like Cartier and Van Cleef who have a long history. We’re a young brand. The interesting thing is we try to bring out the charm of Chinese design. It is traditional but it’s very much hip and fashionable.”

Phoenix necklace made of 18k white gold, diamond pave and rubies. The wings move.

Specifically, the brand creates modern, fashionable versions of traditional Chinese images. For example, its King & Queen line is based on variations of the Dragon (king) and the Phoenix (queen). The collection of rings, bracelets, necklaces and earrings are made of 18k white and rose gold with diamond pavé and touches of rubies. In some cases the parts move, such as the wings on the Phoenix. The jewelry is light and lively and designed to be worn daily.

“The jewelry in my point of view shouldn't be very heavy and you should enjoy it,” he said. “Like my mom. She collects a lot of jewelry but then it always ends up in the safe. She’ll bring it out one or two times a year. If you have a piece of nice jewelry you should really enjoy it and wear it every day.”

Phoenix necklace made of 18k white gold, diamond pave and rubies. The wings move.

Chan began his career in London as a product designer before adding engineer and architect to his resume. His designs ranged from phone booths to the 33-meter high Millennium Clock Tower in Scotland.

“I really wanted to be a product designer,” he said. “In college all the lecturers tried to put me into fashion design because I got the highest marks in fashion. I’m still very much someone who falls in love with product.”

Over the years, his passion grew to include jewelry and watches and was inspired to design his own pieces based on what he felt was a gap in the marketplace.

“I became more intrigued about the world of luxury jewelry,” he said. “I love fashion and I’m a collector of watches. I started collecting jewelry as well. We couldn’t find something that has a Chinese touch but also very, very modern. It just did not exist in the market.”

While Chan has a partner (French entrepreneur Guillaume Brochard) this company is his vision. He stresses that it’s a design-first company. There is very little market research before determining new products. Nor are gems used to determine designs. And he is deeply involved in how the brand is positioned. The glass walls in the ballroom that overlook the crowded streets below were fronted by poster-sized black-and-white photographs of models dressed in Art Deco period clothing wearing Qeelin jewelry. These images were taken by Chan using 100-year-old lenses and a new version of a vintage camera.

“The pictures are very soft and different from digital,” he said.

Below is a promotional video for the new collection using the same imagery as the photography.



Chan says he gets his design ideas based on what’s around him.

“We don’t have a marketing sense,” he said. “It’s very much for me and also the friends around me. For example, at a dinner party I would notice what is lacking on my friends’ and I would feel this kind of product would fit them perfectly. That is more of the information and source when I’m designing new pieces of jewelry.”

He continued, “Unlike a lot of jewelers, we don’t start from the stones. We start from the design and then we try to find the best stone to go with the product. This is why when you look at the collection you always see a story or a design behind it, rather than seeing 10 carats of stones or big rubies and big sapphires. It doesn’t mean we don’t put attention on the stone it just means the stone serves as an enhancement of the design.”

18k white gold earring with diamond pavé and a ruby from the King & Queen collection.

There’s also a sense of fun. Chan said one collection called Ling Long, which is a bejeweled bell, is an example of this. Bells are common gifts for newborn children because the sound is thought to ward off evil spirits. In this case, the clapper of the bell is a diamond so the first sound the baby hears is the sound of a diamond.

“Qeelin is more like that,” he said. “A bit humorous, more fun, very fashionable and it’s still fine jewelry.”

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Web site.

Dennis Chan (left) describing Qeelin's new "King & Queen" collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

As I walked into the sun-filled grand ballroom of Club Lusitano, a Portuguese heritage club in Hong Kong’s Central district, the Qeelin press conference was already underway. What I didn’t expect was a three course formal western style lunch that included New Zealand sole and a cheesecake with mixed berries.

On a stage speaking enthusiastically in Chinese was Dennis Chan, the creative director and co-founder of the luxury jewelry brand. Towering over him is a model dressed in a long formal black dress wearing pieces of the just released jewelry from Qeelin’s “King & Queen” collection. Chan is dressed in a crisp black suit and white shirt with the collar unbuttoned. On his neck is a dragon pendant from the new collection. His shoes are the showstopper, a tiger-themed (I believe) print with gold-colored studs in the back. When I ask him about the shoes he just laughs and says they’re Italian and they matched his clothes.

Dennis Chan's Italian shoes. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Afterward, Chan went from table to table with another tall model dressed in a formal full-length red dress discussing the individual pieces in rapid-fire Chinese.

Dennis Chan demonstrating Phoenix necklace at Qeelin press conference. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

When compared to its peers in the international luxury jewelry world, Qeelin is different in several ways. It’s a relatively small and young company and it’s headquartered in Asia, not Europe.

The Hong Kong-based company combines traditional Chinese themes with French craftsmanship, a design-first philosophy, the use of precious materials and a bit of whimsy. Not yet 10 years old, the brand has 14 boutiques in China, Hong Kong and Europe; and other points-of-sale in Singapore, Tokyo and Europe.

18k rose gold, diamond pavé and ruby bracelet, part of Qeelin's King & Queen collection. The ring has a dragon head (shown) and phoenix head, which represent King and Queen, respectively.

While the company has European influences and distribution, it is focused on the China and Asian markets. This is precisely why French luxury conglomerate Kering (formerly PPR) purchased a majority stake in the relatively small and little-known brand. The December, 2012, acquisition surprised many observers.

“Qeelin is a small brand, but with strong growth potential. We focus much more on the brand’s ability to grow rather than on its current size,” said Alexis Babeau, Kering managing director. “As examples, Balenciaga or Bottega Veneta were very small brands too when we bought them back in 2001. Look at them now…. Qeelin is well positioned to tap the growth potential of the Asian market.”

Qeelin Dragon and Phoenix ring (with the phoenix head shown) made of 18k yellow gold, diamond pavé and rubies.

I had finished my work at the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair so being in the city provided me the opportunity to attend the press conference. Afterward, Chan and I sat for coffee and a short discussion about Qeelin and its future.

Chan said Hong Kong and China are Qeelin’s biggest markets; followed by Europe and Ukraine. “We have a lot of followers,” he said. “They collect everything we have.”

With the Kering acquisition, the boutique brand will have the ability to grow at a rapid pace. Chan said the company will open six to seven stores in China soon. However, he stresses that expansion won’t be rushed.

“We are expanding quite steadily, (but) we try not to expand and suddenly to be very big because it takes time for a luxury brand to grow,” the Hong Kong resident said. “But I think we have our own position in the industry … we rely a lot on design and craftsmanship and at the same time a lot of our jewelry could really touch people’s hearts.”

Chan said that the differences between Qeelin and its European brand counterparts are its advantages.

“If you look at Qeelin, you will find that it is very different,” he said. “We are not like Cartier and Van Cleef who have a long history. We’re a young brand. The interesting thing is we try to bring out the charm of Chinese design. It is traditional but it’s very much hip and fashionable.”

Phoenix necklace made of 18k white gold, diamond pave and rubies. The wings move.

Specifically, the brand creates modern, fashionable versions of traditional Chinese images. For example, its King & Queen line is based on variations of the Dragon (king) and the Phoenix (queen). The collection of rings, bracelets, necklaces and earrings are made of 18k white and rose gold with diamond pavé and touches of rubies. In some cases the parts move, such as the wings on the Phoenix. The jewelry is light and lively and designed to be worn daily.

“The jewelry in my point of view shouldn't be very heavy and you should enjoy it,” he said. “Like my mom. She collects a lot of jewelry but then it always ends up in the safe. She’ll bring it out one or two times a year. If you have a piece of nice jewelry you should really enjoy it and wear it every day.”

Phoenix necklace made of 18k white gold, diamond pave and rubies. The wings move.

Chan began his career in London as a product designer before adding engineer and architect to his resume. His designs ranged from phone booths to the 33-meter high Millennium Clock Tower in Scotland.

“I really wanted to be a product designer,” he said. “In college all the lecturers tried to put me into fashion design because I got the highest marks in fashion. I’m still very much someone who falls in love with product.”

Over the years, his passion grew to include jewelry and watches and was inspired to design his own pieces based on what he felt was a gap in the marketplace.

“I became more intrigued about the world of luxury jewelry,” he said. “I love fashion and I’m a collector of watches. I started collecting jewelry as well. We couldn’t find something that has a Chinese touch but also very, very modern. It just did not exist in the market.”

While Chan has a partner (French entrepreneur Guillaume Brochard) this company is his vision. He stresses that it’s a design-first company. There is very little market research before determining new products. Nor are gems used to determine designs. And he is deeply involved in how the brand is positioned. The glass walls in the ballroom that overlook the crowded streets below were fronted by poster-sized black-and-white photographs of models dressed in Art Deco period clothing wearing Qeelin jewelry. These images were taken by Chan using 100-year-old lenses and a new version of a vintage camera.

“The pictures are very soft and different from digital,” he said.

Below is a promotional video for the new collection using the same imagery as the photography.



Chan says he gets his design ideas based on what’s around him.

“We don’t have a marketing sense,” he said. “It’s very much for me and also the friends around me. For example, at a dinner party I would notice what is lacking on my friends’ and I would feel this kind of product would fit them perfectly. That is more of the information and source when I’m designing new pieces of jewelry.”

He continued, “Unlike a lot of jewelers, we don’t start from the stones. We start from the design and then we try to find the best stone to go with the product. This is why when you look at the collection you always see a story or a design behind it, rather than seeing 10 carats of stones or big rubies and big sapphires. It doesn’t mean we don’t put attention on the stone it just means the stone serves as an enhancement of the design.”

18k white gold earring with diamond pavé and a ruby from the King & Queen collection.

There’s also a sense of fun. Chan said one collection called Ling Long, which is a bejeweled bell, is an example of this. Bells are common gifts for newborn children because the sound is thought to ward off evil spirits. In this case, the clapper of the bell is a diamond so the first sound the baby hears is the sound of a diamond.

“Qeelin is more like that,” he said. “A bit humorous, more fun, very fashionable and it’s still fine jewelry.”

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Web site.

reade more... Résuméabuiyad

Graff Recreates ‘Hair & Jewel’ With Half-Billion-Dollar Diamond Bejeweled Hairdo

Famed diamond jeweler, Laurence Graff, recreated a legacy statement Tuesday that helped to propel his brand to the forefront of the luxury world.

Known as “Hair & Jewel,” Graff in 1970 unveiled a photo of a model wearing an ornate coiffure decorated with $1 million dollars of diamonds and precious gems. The photo received international attention and became a landmark promotion for Graff Diamonds, founded only 10 years earlier.

“Until this time, images showing fine jewelry were typically modeled in a more conservative style,” Graff said in a statement. “This image broke the mould by using a younger model and created the idea of diamonds being aspirational to younger women.”

The Graff name is now known throughout the world and to celebrate the man behind the brand’s 60th year in the jewelry industry he recreated Hair & Jewel, only this time using $500 million worth of precious jewels. It’s a clear statement by Graff using a memorable promotion to show the world how far he has come.

"It is more than 40 years since the original image of Hair & Jewel was captured," Graff said. "The recreation marks an important milestone in Graff Diamonds’ history and coincides with the opening of its 40th store globally."

The hair of model Dalia Gunther was crafted by Eamonn Hughes using 22 rare jewels created at Graff’s headquarters in London. The image was photographed by David Slijper. The jewels used for the recreation include the following:

* Graff “Sweethearts” earrings featuring 51.53-carat and 50.76-carat D color Flawless type IIA heart shape diamonds;

* A selection of jewelry crafted from the 550ct Letšeng Star, the 14th largest white rough diamond ever discovered;

* A 10.47-carat fancy vivid blue internally flawless briolette diamond pendant;

* A 52.73-carat fancy vivid yellow emerald cut diamond ring; and

* A 6.51-carat fancy intense pink internally flawless oval cut diamond ring.

Below is a promotional video from Graff Diamonds showing the Hair & Jewel recreation.



Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Web site

Famed diamond jeweler, Laurence Graff, recreated a legacy statement Tuesday that helped to propel his brand to the forefront of the luxury world.

Known as “Hair & Jewel,” Graff in 1970 unveiled a photo of a model wearing an ornate coiffure decorated with $1 million dollars of diamonds and precious gems. The photo received international attention and became a landmark promotion for Graff Diamonds, founded only 10 years earlier.

“Until this time, images showing fine jewelry were typically modeled in a more conservative style,” Graff said in a statement. “This image broke the mould by using a younger model and created the idea of diamonds being aspirational to younger women.”

The Graff name is now known throughout the world and to celebrate the man behind the brand’s 60th year in the jewelry industry he recreated Hair & Jewel, only this time using $500 million worth of precious jewels. It’s a clear statement by Graff using a memorable promotion to show the world how far he has come.

"It is more than 40 years since the original image of Hair & Jewel was captured," Graff said. "The recreation marks an important milestone in Graff Diamonds’ history and coincides with the opening of its 40th store globally."

The hair of model Dalia Gunther was crafted by Eamonn Hughes using 22 rare jewels created at Graff’s headquarters in London. The image was photographed by David Slijper. The jewels used for the recreation include the following:

* Graff “Sweethearts” earrings featuring 51.53-carat and 50.76-carat D color Flawless type IIA heart shape diamonds;

* A selection of jewelry crafted from the 550ct Letšeng Star, the 14th largest white rough diamond ever discovered;

* A 10.47-carat fancy vivid blue internally flawless briolette diamond pendant;

* A 52.73-carat fancy vivid yellow emerald cut diamond ring; and

* A 6.51-carat fancy intense pink internally flawless oval cut diamond ring.

Below is a promotional video from Graff Diamonds showing the Hair & Jewel recreation.



Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Web site

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New Italian Jewelry Designs from VicenzaOro

The subtle differences of the two tones of gold color and the texture of the precious metal are the hallmarks of Anna Maria Cammilli. The simplicity of this nature-inspired motif is used throughout the collection in complicated ways. Diamond accents enhance the design.

The recently concluded VicenzaOro Fall jewelry tradeshow may have marked a turning point for the Italian jewelry industry, which has been suffering due to the global recession, the spike in gold prices and high labor costs.

The butterfly from Damiani uses yellow gold accented by brown and white diamonds, and amethysts. Each butterfly is made with a variety of material combinations and can be worn as a pendant, brooch or set onto a ring.

At this year’s show, held September 7 -11, approximately, 1,200 Italian and foreign brands from 30 countries presented a breadth of jewelry products to more than 18,000 buyers (10,879 from Italy and 7,160 from 111 other countries).

18k yellow gold cuff with diamond pavé accent by Chimento.

Show officials were particularly excited about the “return” of some Italian retailers, seeing it as “an encouraging sign considering the much-desired end of the most critical phase of the recession.”

A silver star-shaped ring with a white pearl by Mayumi.

The show numbers coincide with data from the Italian government reporting second quarter growth for Italian jewelry exports, after two years of decline. Growth was recorded in terms of value (6%) and quantity (2.6%) over the same period of the previous year. Exports to the US, the world’s largest jewelry market, increased 12 percent in value in the second quarter.

From Fope’s Flex’it collection, patented ‘roll on’ mesh chain bracelets are crafted in 18k gold and fully flexible, without clasps. The Niue line is designed with a refined version of the classic gold mesh, enriched with black or white diamonds, multiple rondels and limited edition pink sapphire or gold cognac diamond balls.

“Among the industry players there is an atmosphere of moderate confidence,” show officials said.

Rose gold bracelet in a flowing design partially covered with white diamond pave by I Gregori Milano.

VicenzaOro, held four times a year, serves as a showcase of beautiful objects that combine artistry, international fashion trends and technical knowhow. Italian fine jewelry in terms of design and craftsmanship is unparalleled in the world of jewelry making. On this level, the show did not disappoint.

Inspired by the Boboli Gardens this collection of handmade jewellery by Nouvelle Bague uses in gold and diamonds, combined with colored enamel.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Web site.

Rings from Porrati with white pearls and rose gold; with pink sapphires set on rose gold; a rose gold ring; and a thin rose gold band set with pink sapphires.

 

I added a piece from Brazilian designer Carla Amorim who was inspired by the formation of sand dunes for these rose gold earrings.

The subtle differences of the two tones of gold color and the texture of the precious metal are the hallmarks of Anna Maria Cammilli. The simplicity of this nature-inspired motif is used throughout the collection in complicated ways. Diamond accents enhance the design.

The recently concluded VicenzaOro Fall jewelry tradeshow may have marked a turning point for the Italian jewelry industry, which has been suffering due to the global recession, the spike in gold prices and high labor costs.

The butterfly from Damiani uses yellow gold accented by brown and white diamonds, and amethysts. Each butterfly is made with a variety of material combinations and can be worn as a pendant, brooch or set onto a ring.

At this year’s show, held September 7 -11, approximately, 1,200 Italian and foreign brands from 30 countries presented a breadth of jewelry products to more than 18,000 buyers (10,879 from Italy and 7,160 from 111 other countries).

18k yellow gold cuff with diamond pavé accent by Chimento.

Show officials were particularly excited about the “return” of some Italian retailers, seeing it as “an encouraging sign considering the much-desired end of the most critical phase of the recession.”

A silver star-shaped ring with a white pearl by Mayumi.

The show numbers coincide with data from the Italian government reporting second quarter growth for Italian jewelry exports, after two years of decline. Growth was recorded in terms of value (6%) and quantity (2.6%) over the same period of the previous year. Exports to the US, the world’s largest jewelry market, increased 12 percent in value in the second quarter.

From Fope’s Flex’it collection, patented ‘roll on’ mesh chain bracelets are crafted in 18k gold and fully flexible, without clasps. The Niue line is designed with a refined version of the classic gold mesh, enriched with black or white diamonds, multiple rondels and limited edition pink sapphire or gold cognac diamond balls.

“Among the industry players there is an atmosphere of moderate confidence,” show officials said.

Rose gold bracelet in a flowing design partially covered with white diamond pave by I Gregori Milano.

VicenzaOro, held four times a year, serves as a showcase of beautiful objects that combine artistry, international fashion trends and technical knowhow. Italian fine jewelry in terms of design and craftsmanship is unparalleled in the world of jewelry making. On this level, the show did not disappoint.

Inspired by the Boboli Gardens this collection of handmade jewellery by Nouvelle Bague uses in gold and diamonds, combined with colored enamel.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Web site.

Rings from Porrati with white pearls and rose gold; with pink sapphires set on rose gold; a rose gold ring; and a thin rose gold band set with pink sapphires.

 

I added a piece from Brazilian designer Carla Amorim who was inspired by the formation of sand dunes for these rose gold earrings.

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Haute Jewelry On Display at About J Jewelry Show

Unique Cobra necklace by Roberto Coin made of white gold with colorless and black diamonds, blue sapphires and rubies.

It was hard to tell that the About J jewelry show was an exclusive event. Buyers were constantly filling the booths of the 34 selected brands, making it a little difficult for me to spend time with exhibitors.

Nodo cuff by Vendorafa in 18k hammered gold with diamond accents. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Most vendors reported good sales and at least strong interest for their products. Buyers will often use this show for intimate conversations with vendors before placing their orders at VicenzaOro Fall, which immediately followed About J.
 

The Couture Paradis earrings from SHO are made of platinum and 18k rose gold with brilliant cut diamonds and conch pearls. Founded by Macau native and London resident, Sarah Ho, she produces jewelry that reflects her life and experiences.

This international haute couture jewelry show combines luxury and fashion with art and design. It is likely the most exclusive jewelry tradeshow in the world. A total of 197 invited buyers from 39 countries attended this year’s event, held September 4 – 7, in Venice, Italy, a jewel of a city.
 

The Plié collection by Luca Carati allows the same jewel to be worn in three distinct ways as the three pictures demonstrate. This piece is shown first as a flower made of black rhodium gold and sapphires. It is then turned over to the opposite where the same flower shape is now made of yellow gold with white and yellow diamonds. Finally, the shape of the piece changes completely using all of the materials, brown gold, yellow gold, diamonds and sapphires. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

I did manage to see most of the exhibitors and despite being so few there was a great deal of variety in artistic and finely crafted items on display. They included hand-made gold pieces from Vendorafa, the colorful creations of Casato Roma, the distinct and versatile pieces of Luca Carati, the personal objects of Sarah Oh, and the colorful and whimsy animal shapes of Roberto Coin.

Delicate 18k rose gold bracelet by Casato Roma with champagne and white diamonds.

A few of the brands focused on high-end pearl pieces and there was even jewelry for men. There’s a lot of optimism this year in the jewelry industry and the vendors at this show were certainly eager to put their highly creative pieces out in front.

Pair of diamond earrings by Sutra Jewels in rose cut blue sapphires and faceted rose cut diamonds.

This story contains photos of just some of the product highlights, where just about every brand featured the best of their best.

Unique bracelet by Utopia made of 18k white gold Gold with diamonds, moonstones, multicolor Tahitian pearls.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Web site.

18k white gold ring paved with white diamonds with enamel details inside the band Marco Valente Design.

Titanium men's rings with gold and diamond accents by Zancan.

Unique Cobra necklace by Roberto Coin made of white gold with colorless and black diamonds, blue sapphires and rubies.

It was hard to tell that the About J jewelry show was an exclusive event. Buyers were constantly filling the booths of the 34 selected brands, making it a little difficult for me to spend time with exhibitors.

Nodo cuff by Vendorafa in 18k hammered gold with diamond accents. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Most vendors reported good sales and at least strong interest for their products. Buyers will often use this show for intimate conversations with vendors before placing their orders at VicenzaOro Fall, which immediately followed About J.
 

The Couture Paradis earrings from SHO are made of platinum and 18k rose gold with brilliant cut diamonds and conch pearls. Founded by Macau native and London resident, Sarah Ho, she produces jewelry that reflects her life and experiences.

This international haute couture jewelry show combines luxury and fashion with art and design. It is likely the most exclusive jewelry tradeshow in the world. A total of 197 invited buyers from 39 countries attended this year’s event, held September 4 – 7, in Venice, Italy, a jewel of a city.
 

The Plié collection by Luca Carati allows the same jewel to be worn in three distinct ways as the three pictures demonstrate. This piece is shown first as a flower made of black rhodium gold and sapphires. It is then turned over to the opposite where the same flower shape is now made of yellow gold with white and yellow diamonds. Finally, the shape of the piece changes completely using all of the materials, brown gold, yellow gold, diamonds and sapphires. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

I did manage to see most of the exhibitors and despite being so few there was a great deal of variety in artistic and finely crafted items on display. They included hand-made gold pieces from Vendorafa, the colorful creations of Casato Roma, the distinct and versatile pieces of Luca Carati, the personal objects of Sarah Oh, and the colorful and whimsy animal shapes of Roberto Coin.

Delicate 18k rose gold bracelet by Casato Roma with champagne and white diamonds.

A few of the brands focused on high-end pearl pieces and there was even jewelry for men. There’s a lot of optimism this year in the jewelry industry and the vendors at this show were certainly eager to put their highly creative pieces out in front.

Pair of diamond earrings by Sutra Jewels in rose cut blue sapphires and faceted rose cut diamonds.

This story contains photos of just some of the product highlights, where just about every brand featured the best of their best.

Unique bracelet by Utopia made of 18k white gold Gold with diamonds, moonstones, multicolor Tahitian pearls.

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18k white gold ring paved with white diamonds with enamel details inside the band Marco Valente Design.

Titanium men's rings with gold and diamond accents by Zancan.

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